Many radio amateurs are always not averse to making some kind of decorative device for purely demonstrative purposes. To do this, the simplest schemes and improvised means are used, especially movable mechanisms that can clearly show the effect of electric current are in great demand. As an example, we will look at how to make a simple electric motor at home.

What is needed for a simple electric motor?

Please note that it is quite difficult to make a working electric machine designed to perform any useful work from the rotation of the shaft at home. Therefore, we will consider a simple model that demonstrates the principle of operation of an electric motor. With it, you can demonstrate the interaction of magnetic fields in the armature winding and the stator. Such a model will be useful as a visual aid for school or a pleasant and informative pastime with children.

To make the simplest home-made electric motor, you will need an ordinary finger-type battery, a piece of copper wire with varnish insulation, a piece of a permanent magnet, no larger than a battery, and a couple of paper clips. From the tool enough wire cutters or pliers, a piece of sandpaper or other abrasive tool, adhesive tape.

The process of manufacturing an electric motor consists of the following steps:

A simple electric motor is ready - just push the coil with your finger and it will start a rotational movement, which will continue until you stop the motor shaft or the battery runs out.

Rice. 4: start the coil

If rotation does not occur, check the quality of the current collection and the condition of the contacts, how freely the shaft moves in the guides and the distance from the coil to the magnet. The smaller the distance from the magnet to the coil, the better the magnetic interaction, so you can improve the performance of the electric motor by reducing the length of the racks.

Single cylinder electric motor

If the previous version did not perform any useful work due to its design features, then this model will be a little more complicated, but it will find practical application in your home. For manufacturing, you will need a 20 ml disposable syringe, copper wire for winding the coil (in this example, a diameter of 0.45 mm is used), copper wire of a larger diameter for the crankshaft and connecting rod (2.5 mm), permanent magnets, wooden planks for the frame and structural elements, DC power supply.

Of the additional tools you will need a glue gun, a hacksaw, a clerical knife, pliers.

The manufacturing process of the electric motor is as follows:

• Use a hacksaw or utility knife to cut the syringe to get a plastic tube.
• Wind a thin copper wire around a plastic tube and fix its ends with glue, this will be the stator winding.
  Rice. 5: wind the wire around the syringe
• Remove the insulation from thick wire with a clerical knife. Cut two pieces of wire.
• Bend the crankshaft and connecting rod for the electric motor from these pieces of wire, as shown in the figure below.
  Rice. 6: bend the crankshaft and connecting rod
• Put the connecting rod ring on the crankshaft to ensure it is tightly fixed, you can put a piece of insulation under the ring.
  Rice. 7: put the connecting rod on the crankshaft
• From wooden dies, make two stands for the shaft, a wooden base and an eye for neodymium magnets.
• Glue the neodymium magnets together and glue the tab to them with a glue gun.
• Fix the second ring of the connecting rod in the eye with a cotter pin made of copper wire.
  Rice. 8: fix the second connecting rod ring
• Insert the shaft into wooden posts and put on bushings to limit movement, make them from pieces of native wire insulation.
• Glue the stator with the winding, the racks with the connecting rod on a wooden base, in addition to wood, you can use other dielectric material.
  Rice. 9: glue the racks and stator
• Secure the leads to the wooden base using flat head screws. The two contacts must be long enough to touch the motor shaft - one on the curved part, the other straight.
  Rice. 10: shaft touch points
• Put on the shaft on one side the flywheel to stabilize the rotation, and on the other hand the impeller for the fan.
• Solder one lead of the motor winding to the elbow contact, and the second to a separate lead.
  Rice. 11: solder the winding leads
• Connect the electric motor to the battery with alligator clips.

The single-cylinder electric motor is ready for operation - it is enough to connect power to its outputs for operation and scroll the flywheel if it is in a position from which it cannot start itself.

Rice. 12: plug in the power

To stop the rotation of the fan, turn off the motor by removing the crocodile from at least one of the contacts.

Cork and spoke motor

It is also a relatively simple homemade option, for its manufacture you will need a champagne cork, insulated copper wire for winding the anchor, a knitting needle, copper wire for making contacts, electrical tape, wooden blanks, magnets, a power source. From the tools you will need pliers, a glue gun, a small file, a drill, a clerical knife.

The manufacturing process of the electric motor will consist of the following steps:

Rice. 14: Connect winding ends and leads

For better contact, you can solder. The conclusions should be bent so that they literally lie on the spoke.

And today we will talk about how to make a fully working model of an electric motor from a battery, copper wire and a magnet. Such a layout can be used as a craft on the table of a home electrician, as a good example for explaining the principles of operation of such mechanisms, and simply as a fun trinket that you can give to a loved one. To make it is quite simple and everyone can do it, you can put it together with your child, which will be great fun. Next, we will provide detailed instructions with photo and video examples so that the assembly of the simplest motor is understandable and affordable!

Step 1 - Prepare materials

To make the simplest magnetic motor with your own hands, you will need the following materials at hand:

Having prepared all the necessary materials, you can proceed to the assembly of the simplest electric motor that runs on just one battery. Making a small electric motor at home is not difficult, as you will see now!

Step 2 - Putting together a homemade

So, in order for the instruction to be understandable for you, it is better to consider it step by step with pictures that will help you visually understand the assembly principle.

We immediately draw your attention to the fact that you can remake and improve the design of a home-made small engine in your own way. For example, below we will provide you with a few video tutorials that may help you make your own version of the engine from a battery, copper wire and a magnet.

What to do if homemade does not work

If suddenly you have assembled a perpetual electric motor with your own hands, but it does not rotate, do not rush to get upset. The most common reason for the lack of rotation of the motor is too much distance between the magnet and the coil. In this case, you only need to trim the legs a little, on which the rotating part rests.

Also check whether you have cleaned the ends of the coil well and whether contact is ensured in this place. The symmetry of the coil also plays an important role, so try to do everything carefully and slowly.

The presence of an engine on a boat makes life much easier for its owner. However, gasoline engines make a lot of noise and consume a lot of resources. An alternative to this type of driving force is electric motors. These are quiet units that run on cheap electricity and are slightly inferior to gasoline outboard engines in terms of travel efficiency. This version of the engine will be cheaper, especially since you can make an electric motor on a boat with your own hands.

In the name "electric motor" lies the essence of the device that it denotes. An electric motor for boats means a unit that sets in motion a swimming facility due to the movement of the blades. Its action is based on physical laws. A feature of electric motors is the resource that they consume to perform their functions.

Today, fuel-powered boat engines are common all over the world. An electric motor for a boat, unlike similar units, works by consuming electricity, not gasoline. There is a widespread opinion among some boat owners about the low efficiency of such devices. However, it is erroneous. When properly designed, the electric motor is capable of providing enough thrust to propel the craft through the water at normal speed.

In addition, a homemade engine has a number of advantages, for example:

1. The final cost of creating such a device will be significantly lower than the market value of factory gasoline engines and electric motors.
2. The legislation in force in the country that protects nature strictly regulates the use of electric motors for boats. These rules do not apply to homemade units.
3. The device works without making any noise. This feature will be especially useful for fishermen, because any loud noises can frighten off a potential catch.
4. Electricity is cheaper than fuel materials. In addition, devices equipped with internal combustion engines consume incomparably more resources than self-made electric motors.
5. The owner of the boat has the opportunity to independently choose the power of the unit suitable for him. The basis of a homemade motor is a drill or other devices. The characteristics of the future engine depend on their power. Which device the master chooses, these will be the indicators of the electric motor.
   

Creating a homemade electric motor is quite simple. Just follow the instructions exactly. However, you will need certain materials and tools. There shouldn't be any problems accessing them. Most of the necessary tools are already in stock for any owner. All materials can be found in free sale at retail outlets. It is easy to find the drawings necessary for the work.

Materials and tools

When selecting equipment, you need to pay attention to two things: power and voltage. These parameters are fundamental, and the quality of the finished electric motor depends on them. The power depends on the selected drill (in this case, this tool is taken as the basis), so first of all you need to choose this equipment.

When choosing a drill, you need to focus on its power. This indicator should exceed one hundred and fifty watts. It is not worth taking a tool with lesser characteristics. In this case, the finished device will not work effectively in moving water (that is, it will not work to swim with such a unit along the river). It is best to use a cordless hammer drill.

The puncher is equipped with a reverse, has several modes of operation. This circumstance is important for the motor that will move the craft, since it will allow in the future to control the speed of the electric motor.

The second important parameter is voltage. Eighteen volt batteries should not be used. They are hard to find and are expensive. The best choice would be a drill that runs on ten or twelve volts. Such a battery is relatively cheaper, and, most importantly, it is much easier to find it on sale.

After choosing the optimal equipment, you can collect materials. To create an engine, you must first acquire:

1. An electric drill that will act as a motor.
2. Clamps with which the drill will be attached.
3. Reducer. You can use an element from a grinder if you plan to install the motor on the transom of the boat.
4. Round tubes with a diameter of twenty millimeters.
5. Profiled pipes (20 * 20 millimeters).
6. Round metal rod. It will be used to create the motor shaft.
7. The sheet metal from which the screws will be made.

You will also need some tools:

• scissors for cutting metal;
• apparatus for welding;
• Bulgarian;
• electric drill with a set of drills;
• self-tapping screws with a screwdriver, if wood is used to create the motor.

After all the elements have been assembled, you can begin to create a boat electric motor with your own hands. The whole procedure consists of several stages. Work should begin with the creation of a lifting mechanism for the impeller. In order for the future device to work properly, it is recommended that you carefully follow the instructions provided below.

Creation of an electric motor

As mentioned earlier, it is necessary to start making an electric motor with your own hands from creating a lifting mechanism for the impeller. It will allow you to raise this element above the water. To create it, it is necessary to weld a metal tube to pre-prepared clamps.

On this tube, you must first attach the base (a frame that looks like a pyramid, directed by a smaller base in the direction of the water). A bed is attached to a large base, another tube is welded to the lower edge. A bearing is installed on the frame. Through it and the tube welded from below, it is necessary to pass the shaft.

A tube or wire can be used as a shaft. However, the first option is better:

• firstly, it will be possible to attach bearings to the tube (at both ends), which will reduce the friction force;
• secondly, it is desirable that this shaft be thin, but strong. In the case of wire, you will have to use a large diameter product.

After all the steps are completed, you can proceed to the next step. The next step is to install the gearbox and propellers.

Reducer/propeller

Gearboxes are recommended to be attached to the sides of the shaft. It is advisable to first create them yourself, focusing on the parameters of the electric motor. However, this process can take a very long time. Therefore, you can buy a device or use gearboxes installed on a grinder.

Depending on the specific engine, one or two gearboxes may be needed. When choosing a device, it is necessary to focus on one basic rule - it is desirable that the transmitting number be small. It is optimal if the gearbox is able to lower the speed by 5 times. This will ensure the normal course of the watercraft.

The lower gearbox is required for horizontal mounting of the propeller. If a gearbox is used from a tool such as a grinder, it will be enough to clamp it in a drill chuck. As a propeller, you can also use elements of other devices. If there is none, you can make a homemade screw. For this you need:

1. Cut out a square (the length of one side is thirty centimeters).
2. Drill a hole in its center.
3. Make slits diagonally (the distance between the slits must be at least five centimeters).
4. The resulting blades must be given a rounded appearance. It is important that the size of the blades is the same, otherwise third-party vibrations may occur.

You can fix the propeller on the shaft with a bolt and nut. It was for this that a hole was made in the center of the metal sheet.

Latest improvements

Next, you need to connect the gearbox to the motor, that is, to the drill. This is easy to do - just clamp the gearbox in the drill chuck, as mentioned earlier. If the base does not match the size of the drill, an additional tube must be used.

The tube must be tightly put on the shaft. So that the latter does not rotate in it, a reliable fixation is needed. It can be provided by making a through hole in the tube and shaft. Next, both elements must be fixed with a hairpin. This fixation will prevent rotational movements of the shaft.

After the device is ready, the homemade outboard electric motor must be checked. It is enough to fill the bath with water and start the electric motor in it. If the pressure is felt by hand, the engine is running normally. You can attach it to the vessel and carry out the test in the pond.

Motor control and other design options for its creation

Although the electric motor is ready, it is not yet capable of making turns. In order not to turn with the help of oars, small improvements must be made to the design. It is enough to attach a bolt to the central part of the fastening, on which then put the pipe. This will make it possible to make turns by changing the position of the base and, accordingly, the electric motor.

Another handle can be welded to the base by bringing a regulator to it, which is responsible for supplying current to the motor. It would be advisable to use a rheostat. However, in this case, you will have to slightly change the drill itself by connecting the motor located in its case to a rheostat. This will create a more functional design.

Screwdriver as a motor

There are several ways to make an electric motor. A screwdriver can be used instead of a drill. By design, it almost does not differ from a device with a drill. A distinctive feature of the product is the lower cost of its maintenance. So, one twelve-volt battery will be enough for a six-hour operation of the device. However, you will have to sacrifice the speed of movement due to less power.

Large pitch propellers can be used to make the boat move faster. In addition, as in the previous case, a screwdriver-based electric motor can be equipped with handles that make it easier to control.

trimer electric motor

Perfect for this purpose and trimer. The process of creating a motor when using this device will be greatly facilitated. The only thing that the master will need to do is shorten the length of the device and attach a screw to it. There is no need to mount the gearbox.

There is also no need to modify the control and the system responsible for powering the motor. The only difficulty that may be encountered on the way is the problem of attaching the device to the boat. Especially for inflatables. But it is also resolvable.

As an electric motor, you can use units that operate windscreen washers, or a simple electric motor. In the latter case, power supply difficulties may arise, since standard motors operate at the expense of an alternating voltage of two hundred and twenty volts. The problem is solved by installing an inverter.

Thus, the owner of the boat can create an electric motor for the boat with his own hands. You don't need any special skills for this. It is only necessary to purchase the necessary materials and prepare some tools. It is recommended to use a drill with a power of more than one hundred and fifty watts as a motor. Such an indicator will allow you to move on a boat both with standing water and along the river.
In addition to a drill, you can use a trimmer or a conventional electric motor. Another option is an electric motor based on a screwdriver. Such a device is cheaper to maintain, however, there may be problems with the speed of movement of the floating craft.

Making an electric motor from what is at hand is not at all difficult.

I spied the idea of ​​​​such a motor on the site www.crafters.ucoz.ru As you can see in the photo above, for the motor we need tape, a couple of pins, a magnet, a battery and a piece of copper wire.

Instead of a conventional battery, it is better to take a battery because the battery charge for such an electric motor is not enough for a long time. Take copper wire and wind 30-50 turns around the battery.

Fix the ends of the wire on opposite edges of the resulting rotor, they will be the axis. They can be tied in a knot.

Clean both ends of the wire from varnish insulation with sandpaper or a knife.

Now take the battery, adhesive tape and pins, attach the pins with adhesive tape to the contacts of the battery, insert the prepared copper rotor into the ears of the pins.

ATTENTION! At this moment, the circuit of our rotor closes the contacts of the battery and it is not recommended to keep this structure in a "calm" position for a long time! Battery electrolyte can get very hot, so don't make the rotor less than 30 turns, the more the better (more resistance). Now put a magnet under the rotor on the battery, it will "stick" to the battery itself. The rotor will begin to rotate rapidly.

The rotor should not touch the magnet and even better if the magnet is at a distance of 5-10 mm from the rotor. Try the magnet in different positions, rotate it, try to move it away from the copper rotor, get the maximum rotation speed.

This is the simplest example of an electric motor, we went through its circuit more than once at school in physics lessons, but for some reason we were never shown this simple and interesting design :) We watch a video of how this home-made motor works.

[video lost by rutube]

Hello comrades, friends and ill-wishers! A small whale for building (additional assembly) of a collector electric motor. Since this is intended for children (unspecified age), you won’t have to wind the wire, everything will be very light, but interesting for the child. Under the cut - assembly, operation and measurements.

Disclaimer right away - this constructor was sent to me for review by Banggood under item 18. That is. I didn't pay a dime for it and shipping. You will pay real money, please take this into account when forming your own opinion about the product.

So, the second designer waited for the fate of being assembled. Like it just came in a package.
The packaging is a fairly tight box, almost not damaged. It certainly weighs much more.

The box is richly supplied with images of the assembled product, on one of the sides there are large hieroglyphs - we decided with our daughter to consider that there is written a congratulation on the New Year

It should be noted that much less needlework is expected here than in the previous constructor. But, in fact, the instructions here are short, and absolutely Chinese in dialect,




and the images on the box are so frankly misinforming!


(look at how magnets are installed on the print on the box. Nothing embarrassing? Oh, these “full-time photographers” of the manufacturer. In addition, the installation is depicted with the manifold up. As will be shown later, in this device, “up and down matter”.

Note that on the BangGood website, the images (photos) are correct - the magnets are installed with different poles, the collector with brushes is at the bottom.

Inside our box is:






Two magnets in the form of a parallelepiped. Quite heavy, but not heavy duty for its size.


Frame made of plastic. “Brushes” are already fixed and there are bolt clamps for wires


Rotor with a collector on the axis.


Two wires with crimped ends for bolts.


Tin key, for wire clamp


Well, the aforementioned slurred instructions.

Well, thank God, we generally know what this is), so after a short lecture, we move on to assembling and consolidating the lesson.

I do not claim to be the best teacher of the year, so I limited myself to a story about what a magnetic field is, why it arises (natural magnets and a magnetic field around a conductor with current) and how magnetic fields can move and / or rotate things.
Most admired was the passage about "aggressive magnets" that push the rotor through magnetic fields. Of course, the simplification is great, but every day he asks to tell again about them.

Assembly does not cause any problems, but it is very embarrassing that the assembled device is shown on the box with magnets installed symmetrically (i.e. N to N) - which contradicts the instructions, the image on the site, and most importantly the physical meaning. This is sad. Since a child, left to himself, naturally tries to assemble as shown on the box, without waiting for the theses about the poles of magnets.

Also, on the box and in the instructions, the installation is depicted upwards with a collector, and on the website the picture is vice versa.
In general, confusion.
As a result, self-assembly gave the following result:

We are trying to tighten the wire plugs with plastic clamps and are faced with the fact that the black clamp flatly refuses to twist to the state of being pressed. We do not persist, using the complete key, we clamp the wire between the frame and the clamping nut.

Now we are reworking the installation a little, at the same time explaining what was done wrong)))

Install the magnets following the instructions. We install the rotor with the collector, the axis neatly enters with sharp ends into the recesses on the upper and lower clamping bolts. We start the collector between the "brushes" so that they are tightly pressed against the collectors with stampings.

So, everything is assembled, tightened, the axis rotates.

We take the Eneloop battery (2000mAn, the voltage at the time of connection is 1.31V) and ...
Nothing happens. We turn the rotor in different directions. Zero reaction.

Well, let's go along the extensive path - we take a lithium-ion battery with a voltage of 4.15 volts. The battery is "resembling", so we do not expect it to give out a large current, which could cause special effects.
I clamp the contacts with my fingers on the battery (yes, I agree, this forms a wrong perception of safety in the child, we will correct it) and I feel that the current is going ... and considerable, judging by how quickly the contacts under the fingers heat up.
They turned the rotor and “yet it spins” ©.

With sparks from under the "brushes", our motor is gaining momentum, clearly demonstrating how the current from the battery generates a magnetic field that interacts with the magnetic field of stationary magnets.
The number of turns is quite decent. We shoot with a slowdown of 1/4x in the hope of then counting the revolutions.

The child is delighted and asks to repeat “encore” many times, either turning the motor himself, or pressing the contacts.

Trying to start again on AA battery

Actually, already here you can see that the goal of the designer has been achieved - a little theory, a little practice with your hands and a lot of fun to consolidate the material. Now she asks me every day to "play motor with aggressive magnets."

We remove the assembled product from the child when he has played enough and carry out measurements and improvements.

Unfortunately, it has not yet been possible to achieve autostart of the motor, only with a manual push. Probably, if there were a three-pole anchor here, there would not be such a problem. And this is actually urgent, because a delicate children's finger can suffer during manual start.

The current flowing on an unstarted motor is quite large, more than an ampere (1.21A) from lithium-ion, which means that more than 3 watts goes literally into the air.
After starting, the current drops slightly and stabilizes in the region of 0.8-0.82A

Replacing the battery with a fresh protected Panasonic 3400mAn only leads to the fact that every second time the battery protection cuts off the power. The current does not increase much. (1.1A). But the speed increases (less voltage drop under load than the old Li-Ion)

Slow motion. The upper mount is slightly tightened, the beating is visible.

The number of revolutions does not exceed 40 revolutions per second.

We take grease for bearings and lubricate the conical friction pairs of the rotor axis. We stretch a little. The rotation becomes more even and stable (beats go away) and even the speed seems to increase.

But in any case, the speed is not higher than 40 rpm at a current of 0.95A

Okay, now we take the AA battery.
A couple of unsuccessful attempts and the engine starts on it. But it works weakly, uncertainly and calms down.

The current when the engine is not running is 0.46A

But what if we turn our design over so that the collector is at the bottom - and lo and behold, work from AA is much more confident. Perhaps the point is less friction in this cone pair when working as a support ...

We measure the current, again in the “not running” state and in the “running” state. Again, we shoot a slow-motion video in order to approximately determine the number of revolutions.

Here it is already more or less accurate to say that on the AA element the number of revolutions is in the region of 10-12 revolutions per second.

Nevertheless, our motor strives to stop on the battery, although it eats 0.6A

We also measure the resistance of the winding. Approx 2.5ohm

The rotor was launched by hand in the manner of a spinning wheel, i.e. it is fairly balanced about the axis.
Here in this photo you can check out the quality of the winding

Since our "brushes" are just metal stampings, they scratch the collector, God forbid

weigh-ins

Rotor weight is 24 grams

The frame weighs 47 grams

To complete the picture, we weigh the magnets (36 and 37 grams)


and measure how much in static they can approximately hold metal (by weight). It doesn't really matter, but so be it. (210gr+)

The resistance of the proposed wiring was 0.2 ohm for the minus one and 0.2 ohm for the plus one.

In general, I noticed that on the muse commentators are especially orgastic delight when measuring everything that can be measured, even if it is not important for the product, or its cost does not justify such detail.
I thought about visiting the alma mater laboratory and examining the magnetic fields generated by the magnets and the motor assembly, conducting a study of the materials from which the frame is made (if there are any harmful impurities in the plastic), to clarify whether oxygen-free copper was used for windings. In addition, I was interested in the magnitude of the luminous flux generated by sparks from brushes crawling along the collector (naturally in boxing). There were also interesting ideas for measuring sound pressure. One of my friends seriously argued that I should investigate how swallowing a magnet would affect the digestive tract (“you have to,” he shouted, “what if one of your readers buys this, but oversights and the child swallows the magnet!”), but on sound reflection, I refused such a test on myself. Therefore, do not blame me that there is no analysis of the cardiogram of my heart at the moment the engine is started, when I press the contacts with my finger (and what vibrations there should be ... from delight ...).

Summing up, I want to note the following:
1) The instruction is meaningless and defective. There are no details or warnings about applicable power supplies. Moreover, the pictures on the box (incorrect) directly contrast with the pictures in the instructions.
2) The kit is not completely complete, there is no power supply. If people do not have flashlight (lithium ion / polymer reserves), then most likely there will be problems when starting from an AA battery, or the start will not be spectacular (faded). And someone out of a special mind can decide to connect a torn USB wire to the input from a mains power source or even connect 220 volts. There are no warning labels on the box or in the instructions in understandable English.
3) Cant with negative clamp.
4) Hoarding at the third pole at anchor. It would be better for a buck more expensive, but with a normal autostart, and not the risk of getting a finger or pinching a finger between the rotor and the magnet
5) In general, inexplicable hoarding on brushes. The surface of the collector wears out very quickly from such operation, brushes cost a penny. You will have to look for something suitable, otherwise the toy will also quickly become disposable.

Now about the pros, and remember that I got it for free, and you will pay something around 500 rubles (!)

1) The toy-constructor is quite large and visual. Perhaps part of the price went into large magnets and copper at anchor)))
2) If you have a 4.2 volt battery, you can start it easily, as well as assemble it. There will be no fail (unless, of course, install the magnets according to the instructions, and not as shown on the box).
3) You can build a whole lecture around it, both in depth for preschoolers and middle-aged schoolchildren (with whom we already go into details regarding windings, the number of poles at the anchor, reducing friction in cone pairs, etc.)
4) in a 4-year-old child, it aroused interest, joy, and a desire to repeat and repeat experiments.

I note that you can build something similar yourself by tearing up some unnecessary small electric motor. So this waste is not an indispensable auxiliary means.
However, if BangGood discounts this model, or you get some points there or whatever, you can make your life easier by ordering and assembling this model, as it is still visual.

I hope that after the review you will be able to form your own opinion whether you need such a training constructor for such money.

Thanks to all.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I plan to buy +16 Add to favorites Liked the review +37 +61