I was thinking about buying a BOB Ibex bike trailer to haul my . But in the end, I decided to make a bike trailer with my own hands.

The BOB Ibex trailer has a very good design, in particular, a patented fastening method, so we will assemble a home-made trailer based on it.

Step 1: Details and materials.

Let's start assembling a homemade bike trailer by looking for the main components. And based on the details found, then we will develop a plan for further actions.

Wheels: At first I thought about fitting a 20" BMX wheel, but ended up using 16" wheels like the original BOB trailers. I had a few old ones with 16" wheels, but decided to buy a new wheel anyway.

Shock Absorber: I got a mechanical bike rear shock on ebay for $13 (including shipping). The pneumatic shock absorber is much better, but it is significantly more expensive. Bought 1/2" bolts and nylon shims from local hardware store.

Swivel bracket and rear triangle: I used an old BMX fork as a swing arm for the rear wheel. The hinge was made of steel, which I bought inexpensively at a local bike shop. Another fork was needed to build the vertical part of the rear triangle.

Frame: Made from 1/2 inch thin wall metal tubing for wires. Each 10" tube cost $2.00. I needed four tubes. Before welding, be sure to grind the galvanized coating with a flap wheel.

Other components: I used steel plates (1/4" and 1/8"), corners and a channel that were left over from previous projects. The old knitting needles acted as locking pins. In addition, we need a thin-walled metal tube one inch thick. The bottom is made of steel mesh.

BOB quick release axle: It forms the basis of BOB's patented trailer attachment method. It is possible that the mount could be made independently, but it is still better to purchase a ready-made mount, since there should definitely not be any problems with it. I ordered a quick release axle from Amazon for $26. Another version of the quick release axle is also available for bikes with a solid rear axle.

Step 2: Tools.

The main ones that we need to assemble a homemade bike trailer:

• 4" angle grinder with cut-off, sanding and flap discs
• Round and flat metal files
• Pipe cutter for cutting thin-walled metal tube for wires (a grinding wheel was also used)
• Bending machine for thin-walled metal tube for wires (I only had for 3/4", but it worked for 1/2")
• Drilling machine and hand drill
• Bench grinder and disc-shaped wire brush
• Wire feeder or MIG welding machine
• Openwork saw with blades for cutting metal
• Marking tools, cutters, punches

Step 3: Swing Arm and Rear Triangle Constructions.

I started by assembling the swing arm.

Since the BMX fork is designed for 20" wheels and I used a 16" wheel, I had a few extra inches left to use for my own purpose - to attach the shock.

I welded a piece of channel to the top of the fork (you can also use a corner), to which, in turn, I attached a shock absorber.

I cut out the 1.5" x 1.5" (or 1.25" x 1.25") shock mounts from two steel angles.

I cut out two more shock mounts for the top and mocked up the rear triangle. The second bicycle fork served as vertical supports for the rear triangle. I used a steel bushing as a fulcrum in the fork for the swing arm. Using a steel angle, I outlined the required length of the vertical fork after trimming. I also needed a steel angle to attach the shock mount to the vertical fork legs.

I cut off the stem of the fork and attached the rounded slot to the steel bushing. Since the diameter of the fork was larger than the diameter of the bushing, I had to work with a hammer on the stem of the fork to fit the groove size to the dimensions of the bushing.

Weld the channel to the swivel bracket of the fork, and solder the lower part of the mount to the channel.

Weld a steel sleeve to the yoke tube pivot bracket. First you need to remove the axle and bearings.

Weld a steel angle to the tops of the cut off legs of the fork. Weld the top of the shock absorber mount to the corner. Then sand the edges.

My welding was not very accurate, because the wind was strong, I did not have enough gas and I have little experience.

Finally, bolt the steel hub axle to the fork legs. Attach the shock absorber with a 1/2" bolt and nylon grommets to the top and bottom of the mount.

Step 4: Trailer fork dropouts.

If you follow BOB terminology, then the part of the trailer that attaches to the rear axle of the bicycle should be called the fork. To get started on this part of the project, I had to wait for the cam axle to arrive from Amazon. The contact of the dropout with a special BOB eccentric mounting system allows the trailer to turn up and down around the rear axle of the bike. It is necessary to install the axle on the bike, check the clearances, and also measure the diameter and width of the dropouts.

I started the production with a sketch of the dropout, made from a photo from the Internet. Using the dimensions mentioned above, I made a paper template. To cut two dropouts, I used a 1/4 inch thick steel plate at hand. To cut the dropouts, you will need a round old plate with a large hole in the middle. In size, it should approximately correspond to the size of the template. Using an openwork saw with metal cutting blades, I cut a large piece off the plate and then drilled a 9/16 inch diameter dropout hole. My plate was thicker than the eccentric socket, so I had to grind it down a little at the connection point so that it could fit into the socket.

I then drilled two small holes into the plates so they could be fastened together with small screws. Then I polished them again so that they corresponded to each other as much as possible. One of the holes will be used to hold the locking pin in place with a large piece of steel nail welded on.

A locking pin made from a stainless steel spoke prevents the dropout from popping out of the eccentric mount. How to drill small holes through the legs of the dropout, see the sketch and photo. The needle is inserted into the holes, bent at an acute angle, and then passed behind the bolt and brought out above.

Step 5: Trailer fork.

The trailer fork allows the trailer to move sideways.

This swivel tube was fabricated using a 10" long, 1" thin-walled metal tubing and 5/16" x 1 1/4" washers welded on top and bottom.

The washers are held together by a 5/16" stud with nuts that act as the anchor point for this design. Washers need to be welded to the tube and sanded. A cap nut was used on one side of the rod.

Before welding, be sure to grind the galvanized coating of the pipe with a flap wheel.

The trailer fork frame is made from 1/2" thin-walled metal tubes that were bent using a bending machine. Before being welded to the dropouts, the frame was sanded with a 4" grinding wheel. The two bottom tubes of the frame were first welded to the dropouts , and then to the hinged pipe.Similarly, the two upper pipes were welded.

To facilitate trailer rotation, nylon spacers were placed on top and bottom of the pivot tube.

Step 6: Trailer frame.

The trailer frame was made from 1/2 inch thin wall metal tube.

I started making the frame with two sections of the upper and lower parts of the frame. Since it was difficult for me to create an even semi-circle of a large radius at the front of the trailer, like with BOB trailers, I decided to limit myself to a small bend radius and short straight bridges between the upper and lower parts of the frame. At this stage, I didn't care about the overall length of the pipes - the main thing is that the top and bottom of the frame match exactly.

I started assembling the frame with a sketch. According to it, I made models, according to which I assembled the frame in metal.

I cut out the base plates from 1/8 inch steel and welded them on the front to the top and bottom of the frame at an angle, as in the breadboard. The base plates were attached to the top and bottom of the pivot tube, thus defining the location of the bottom and top front of the frame frame.

Then, on each side, I welded vertical struts between the down tubes and the top tubes.

To determine the desired length of the frame, I had to make a layout again. I welded the top cross section, cut the side rails to the correct length, and welded the uprights in the back.

Diagonal baffles on each side are needed to reinforce the rigidity of the frame. I also took large steel nails, cut them off and welded them into the holes in the bottom of the diagonal baffles so that they act as a spring damper at the joints.

Step 7: Bottom of the frame.

The bottom of the frame is made of special metal mesh, which can be bought at a hardware store. Unless it will be difficult to find a sheet large enough so that one sheet can completely cover the bottom of the frame. So I had to use an old garden cart that seems to have seen better days. I cut out a metal mesh from the cart and cleaned it of rust in several places.

Before deciding on the final size of the metal mesh, I welded the vertical part of the rear triangle to the back of the frame. Then I cut the metal mesh around the fork legs and welded the metal mesh to the bottom of the frame. Next, I sanded all the sharp and rough edges of the grid.

Step 8: Painting the homemade trailer.

Now everything is ready. You can start painting our homemade bike trailer.

Step 9: After painting.

Finally, the homemade trailer is painted and looks pretty good.

I used Rustoleum Hammered Bronze, which gives the metal a forged effect, improving the appearance of the welds. But, since I painted at a temperature of 34 ° C, this effect did not appear in any way.

However, the homemade bike trailer has been given a beautiful metallic bronze finish.

The final weight of the homemade bicycle trailer was 10 kg.

The last thing to do is to make a belt mount for the locking pins so they don't get lost during the ride.

Bob Ibex bike trailer assembled by hand.

Step 10: Finishing touches.

I made narrow strips from bicycle tubes. I pierced one end with a locking pin, and the other with a bolt, which I then secured into a hole next to the fork dropout.

This ensured that the locking pin would not get lost if it popped out and was always at hand when hitching up the trailer.

2. Upholstery of the top tube.

I used foam (two 6-inch lengths, each costing $0.97) for padding around the perimeter of the top tube. I needed a few plastic zip ties to secure the foam. The padding protects the paint from large items that may be peeking out of the basket and also reduces slip resistance when large items are strapped to the top tube.

Hello dear friends! When talking about a bike trailer, people can perceive the meaning of this phrase in different ways. In one case, we are talking about simple car trailers into which one or more bikes can be loaded and transported from point A to point B. A rational solution. Especially if you make an appropriate insert-mount for transporting bicycles.

On the network you can find the corresponding drawings and do them yourself. Moreover, a home-made and only slightly modified passenger car trailer for a car, that is, a truck, will not go beyond its certified design, and you will not have any problems with traffic police or traffic police.

But today we are talking about something different. I want to talk about the trailer specifically for the bike itself, that is, it is a trolley that is attached to the bike and is used as a small wheeled structure for cargo, some things, sometimes even for transporting children in nature.

Design features of the bike trailer

If in the case of transportation by car, it is not necessary to use a trailer for transporting bikes, since there are special, as well as or more common , then in order to pull some kind of load behind the bike itself, you can’t do without a trolley.

Bicycle trailers are used to transport heavy, but compact loads. Weight largely depends on how much an adult will be able to master. Therefore, such structures are subject to increased requirements in terms of strength and reliability. At the same time, the bike trailer should be maneuverable and light. And do not forget about the possibility of quick repair in case of breakdown. This makes such trailers structurally simple and understandable for any person.

Bicycle trailers can be used for some things, for dogs, sometimes even for children for the purpose of entertainment or a relaxing ride through the park. In this case, the structure must be stable and equipped with seat belts.

In some cities, there is even a rental of such trailers. Moreover, the price is quite acceptable, and allows you to experience all the advantages of a bicycle trailer. I know for sure that such a service exists in Moscow and Ukraine. If you know more trailers, please leave a review.

Cargo bike trailers can be in the form of a solid or prefabricated structure, for which additional equipment is provided in the form of a cover, some nets, seat belts, animal grills, etc. The movement is carried out relative to the axis of the bike itself. This makes it possible to create safe and reliable conditions for movement even on poor quality roads and with a maximum load on the structure. The most commonly used lateral or bilateral method of fixation.

If we talk about carrying capacity, then basically they are designed for weights up to 50 kilograms. There are models from Thule and other well-known brands, where this parameter reaches 70 and 90 kilograms.

Varieties

Everything is extremely simple here. If you decide to buy a ready-made bike trailer, then be sure to take a look at its design features.

The division is based on the number of wheels used. As a result, the bike trailer can be:

• One wheel. The design has received the greatest distribution precisely in the field of tourist cycling. One-wheeled models are the most maneuverable and compact, which allows you to drive with them even on the narrowest paths and difficult sections;
• Two-wheeled. A more massive design, focused on the transportation of heavy loads, animals, children, etc. At the same time, it is no less popular due to its cargo capabilities. Maneuverability is not as ideal, but it all depends on your route and the amount of things you need to take with you.

That's the whole classification for you. Other principles for separating bicycle trailers are not yet used.

Key design elements

If you look at the photos and videos where different versions of bicycle trailers are assembled, you can see certain similarities in all models with different designs and some differences.

Moreover, it is not fundamentally important whether the structure is made of plastic pipes without welding, or it is assembled on the basis of a metal frame.

• Frame. Often this is a design that consists of mounting oblique answers, as well as an even axle required for the wheel. The frame is subject to increased requirements in terms of strength and reliability. The basis is a steel or metal profile;
• Platform. Its task is to withstand the impact load. Plywood, plastic or even MDF are used as manufacturing materials. When choosing a platform material, consider the operating conditions. Not all of them can withstand exposure to moisture;
• Fastening. The bike rack system is considered to be the most important component of the entire trailer. It includes a drawbar, various fasteners, locks and clamps. The quality of fastening directly affects the functionality, maneuverability and safety of the cargo being transported.

There are various versions and modifications. For example, in the USA, models designed for transporting surfboards are common. In our country, universal models turned out to be more popular.

A little about DIY assembly

I can’t give you specific instructions for making such a trailer with your own hands, since there are a wide variety of drawings based on various materials.

I would like to note that there is nothing complicated in the manufacture of a bicycle trailer, even if you have never done anything like this. Usually they make a box based on MDF or plywood. To weld the drawbar yourself, order from the master or buy a ready-made product, it's up to you.

Titanium is an ideal frame material due to its lightness and strength. But it is expensive, because aluminum is most often used. You can lay a strong metal basket on the bottom, and if you wish, sheathe it all with MDF or plywood with a moisture-resistant coating.

The trailer and the bike itself are connected by a metal tube, and at the end of the latter there is a drawbar. By the way, about You can read a separate material, and then much will become clear.

Otherwise, I recommend that you follow simple rules when operating such wheeled products. It is important not to overload the bike trailer, learn to feel your own dimensions, and also choose a route in advance so that there are no problems with the bike trailer’s cross-country ability.

As a lover of long trips with overnight stays, I very often did not have enough space to place all the necessary luggage and within a few weeks, after buying a bike Motor Vernor XC, undertook the creation trailer. At first it was a towed version of the trailer behind bicycle, but having made the first sample and having tested it a couple of times at short distances, I stopped working in this direction, and at the beginning of last season I took up the creation of a side trailer.

In many respects, it was decisive that the trailer was conceived to transport the dog too. The way to the river Chusovaya in 50 km for a hunting dog stretched for all 100 and more kilometers. At the end of the journey, it was a pity to look at the dog ..., and after 2-3 days the way back was coming. On the Internet, I borrowed an interesting idea of ​​\u200b\u200bsuch side trailer. The essence of this idea was to connect only at the bottom point, which allowed bike and the trailer on bumps to keep the center of gravity independently of each other. The base for the frame is taken from the seat of an old car, the wheel and fork are from a teenage bike. From a long search - how to connect Motor Vernor XC With trailer- is chosen.

The design was originally created in a folding version in order to prevent unpleasant moments on very narrow sections of the path (in my cases this sometimes happens).

But it so happened that for real trailer I didn’t manage to use the Chusovaya River (a distance of 50 km one way) I didn’t manage to go to bicycle Motor Vernor XC ( there were two small trips over a distance of about 10 km). The decisive moment was the categorical disagreement of the dog with such a vehicle. As he did not fight, he could not make the dog sit while moving bicycle. And time goes by and ahead of the 2014 season. What will happen - we'll see in the summer ...

I don't even know where to start this article. Maybe from the choice or doubts that overcame me. Choose a bike bag "pants" with a trunk

Or a bike trailer?

A trunk with a bag costs approximately 5,000 rubles, but the load on the rear wheel will be incredible (your weight, which mainly puts pressure on the rear axle + the small weight of the trunk itself + what will be on the trunk itself). A bicycle trailer without a bag is the cheapest 13,400 rubles, but the load from the rear wheel obviously goes to your third wheel and the center of gravity is much lower than that of the trunk, which will positively affect the stability of your bike and axle weight distribution.

In the end, I chose a bike trailer, but I didn’t like the fact that the trailer is attached to the bike in all factory configurations due to the axle of the rear wheel of the bike itself.

In principle, this is not bad. except for one "NO". All of them are good only on perfectly flat roads. If you drive vertically on a critical landscape, then your trailer will move vertically relative to the bike, and then all the bolts and nuts that hold your rear wheel will inevitably unwind (take a closer look at the photos). What would you do to prevent this from happening? After digging a little more on the Internet, I found homemade ones, which, in principle, are in no way inferior to the factory ones, and maybe even surpass them.

This homemade product has both a horizontal hinge for turning, and a vertical one (under the axle of the rear wheel of the bicycle), which the factory trailers do not have. It was from this sample that I pushed off to create my bike trailer.

So, I started my trailer with the selection of bearings and turning bushings for them. The bushings turned out somehow like this, and bearings numbered 6000z (a closed analogue of the 100th bearing of the Soviet of Deputies) came up to them, of which I bought 4 pieces for 105 rubles.

The next step was to machine the bracket that would attach my trailer to the bike. He carved iron from a simple sheet of rawhide. Marked out where and what holes I will have for attaching to the frame and one hole for the stud on which the trailer bushing will be attached.

I cut a thread in the plate in order to wrap the stud and, on the reverse side, locked it with a nut through the engraving washer.

This is what the original disassembled view of the entire bracket looks like. Ordinary washers are needed to abut against the inner race of the bearing. Then it will be necessary to finish the stud itself with the nut to prevent unwinding.

To attach the bracket to the bike, we change the disc brake mounting bolts for longer ones. Just for those millimeters, which was the thickness of the bracket plate (I have 4.5 mm).

Do you see the nut that holds your wheel axle with an eccentric?

And here is her view from the back. Considering that my eccentric axis was peeping out 1.5 mm in the clamped state and the fact that the metal thread in this nut is only half the depth, and this is another 4 mm. It turns out that the length of the eccentric axis was enough for me without changing it to a longer one.

The next photo is how my homemade trailer bracket sits on the bike.

The view from the other side shows that nothing prevents me from rotating the wheel and I can continue to create my bike trailer.

I found a thin-walled pipe (a leg from an old Soviet table), bent it as I needed. I sawed out the excess with a simple hacksaw and a file. I asked the welder to weld all blanks. Then I also processed the seams with a file, which turned out and came out like this towbar for the trailer.

The next step was the purchase of a profile pipe 20x20 mm. I had to take all 6 meters, because they did not want to sell less. Gave 340 rubles for 6 meters.

So I waited for the store to open after the weekend. By this time, I went to the garage and got a couple of 6203Z bearings from the stash.

And a couple of car nuts, which I sharpened on emery under the cone.

And so I arrived at the store. I hope no one needs to explain what it is? For those who do not understand, this is an axle with an eccentric assembly on the front wheel (we have 120 rubles in our store).

An ordinary rear rim for a kama for a brake drum (mind you for a Soviet drum). It costs 675 rubles with us.

And now look how perfectly our bearings fit into this bushing.

We take the purchased axle and sort it out in our own way. As you can see in the photo, our cones of nuts took the place of the standard ones, since they had the property of falling through the bearings. By the way, on my Auchan, I assembled the front wheel on a Chinese rim and bearings No. 6202, they also fit.

We collect the wheel. Just do not drag those very homemade cones! Although the bearings are promotional, if they are tightened, they will also refuse to roll, although at the same time the move will not be twitchy, but smooth.

This will make it a little clearer. Doesn't it look nice?

Well, we went to work after the New Year's weekend. We can say that I completed the tow bar for my trailer. I covered it with a gray primer and then with a colorless varnish, since the primer itself is matte, and with the help of varnish gave it a shine. I sawed off everything superfluous at the bracket stud (which was mentioned above), drilled the nut along with this 2.5 mm stud and put it on a cotter pin to prevent unwinding.

The fourth day at lunchtime, I haunt my work colleagues. He sawed everything, turned it, tried it on, drilled it - in a word, he made as much noise as he could. In between, I bought a set of fenders (the front one has not yet been adapted anywhere) for 365 rubles. The result is a miracle. It's starting to look like something.

Welded ears for the bracket, set the hitch. And then it is basically ready for use.

Today I brought another 60 cm of profiled pipe from the garage to work in order to make a wheel protection out of this piece of iron (1) from the load and it will also serve as a stand for a couple of bottle holders. I bought a couple of bottle cages over the weekend for 360 rubles (180X2). We also welded a piece of metal pipe (2) , in which I cut a thread of 5 mm for a clearance flag and welded 3 pairs of lugs (3) for lashing straps under the trailer frame. Seams from welding treated with a grinder. Now all that's left is sanding and painting.

So I brought the finished copy home. This is what he looks like on his own.

And this is how my trailer looks in a compartment with a bike.

View from the left side.

It seems to have hit the height. In this case, the bicycle axle is 1.5 cm higher than that of the trailer. But the bike stands on a 12 mm stand so as not to hurt the floors and on winter tires 2.35, and I have 2.10 summer tires. So in the summer it will be completely horizontal. I'm already happy.

I once wrote at the very beginning of the article that factory trailers do not have hinges from vertical deviations. Here you can see that the trailer can be raised almost to the saddle, and lowered just inside out.

But there are downsides to my trailer. As for me, a turn to the left will be carried out only at 50 degrees and no more. It's a shame, but something has to be sacrificed.

This is what the trailer looks like when turning left at maximum turn. Do not reverse the slope. The bike itself is also cloudy on the right side. The pivot system I used tilts the trailer to the same angle as the bike itself.

And what I like most about my trailer is that it can withstand my weight and the Russian-made wheel is already becoming a weak link in this matter.

Trailer manufacturing costs:

4 bearings for 105 rubles = 420 (bought at the Electa store);

profile pipe 6 meters - 340 rubles (purchased at the site "Stroydvor");

an axle with an eccentric assembly for the front wheel - 120 rubles (purchased at the Sporting Goods store);

rear rim 20 inches for a Soviet brake drum - 675 rubles (bought in the store "Sports Goods");

a set of chrome wings for 20 inches - 365 rubles (purchased at the Sporting Goods store);

bottle holders 2 pcs 180 rubles each - 360 rubles (bought in the store "Sports Goods");

one jar of aerosol primer for 135 rubles -

one jar of aerosol acrylic varnish 125 rubles - (bought at the "Construction Boom" store);

total spent - 2540 rubles.

Could still spend 300 rubles on a reflector and taillight; 220 rubles for a pair of wheel bearings and in complexity it would cost me 3060 rubles.

The weight of the trailer turned out to be 7.3 kg, the platform length is 650 mm, the platform width is 250 mm.

Let's see how he behaves in field trials with the transport of goods. I will add an article about this, or show it in the comments to this article. So far I've only driven it at idle. When you pull it is not felt empty, constantly looking back and looking at the place.

When loading 15 kg - minus one gear. All the same, you have to work a little to pull it.

The second photo was taken from our PVD at the end of May 2016. In the bag: 3-seater tent, sleeping bag, self-inflating mat, kettle with all the spoons, about 4 kg of food and 2 liters of water on the frame of the trailer itself. The total weight of the luggage was about 14 kg. We drove 22 km from the city on broken old asphalt and along a field road and the trailer coped with its burden with a bang. When you slow down, the trailer starts pushing you. You have to take into account the extra inertia when braking.

04/15/2016 2 291 0 ElishevaAdmin

DIY

Today there is a new renaissance for bicycles. Here and the turn of the population on the environmental friendliness of vehicles, cultivated in every possible way, and fatigue from constant traffic jams. Of course, on modern trails, the bike looks pale, which cannot be said about the countryside. There he is in his place, and in the city, if you do not meddle in the busiest streets, it can be useful.

But this horse on two wheels without a motor is not very suitable for transporting luggage. More precisely, it is practically not adapted. But you can attach a trailer to it with your own hands. Such an improvement is appropriate, and it is not too difficult to make it.

How to make a trailer for a bicycle with your own hands

The design of the trailer contains the following elements:

Platform measuring 10x70 cm;

Frame for mounting wheels up to 29 inches, made of inch steel tubes;

Brackets with which the platform is attached to the trunk;

Drawbar adjustable, thanks to which the trailer can be attached to any bike;

Platform for attaching a tool box.

Materials:

Steel strip, 30 cm long, 50x4 mm;

Steel strip, 30 cm long, 25x4 mm;

Pipe inch steel with square section;

Bolts with eyes with a diameter of 8 with a pitch of 18, 4 pcs; to them - washers and nuts;

Bolts with a diameter of 6 in increments of 20, 5 cm long, 4 pcs;

Bolts with a diameter of 10 in increments of 16, 4 cm long, 2 pcs; to them - washers and nuts;

Nuts with a diameter of 10 pitch 24, 2 pcs;

Detachable ball joint;

A 4 cm threaded stud, it can be a bolt without a nut or a bicycle wheel hub axle;

Platform sheet, presumably MDF 70*100 cm, about 18 mm thick;

Bicycle wheels with a diameter of about 20 inches, with tires.

Tools:

Drilling machine with a vice (it is desirable to have a clamp);

Bulgarian with grinding and cutting discs;

Welding machine;

Central punch;

Drills 6, 8, 10 mm in diameter;

Hammer;

Roulette;

Taps;

Welding helmet;

felt-tip pen;

Canvas gloves.

Step-by-step instructions (master class) for making a trailer for a bicycle

1. We make plates on which we will put the axles of the wheels. There are 4 such plates, 75 mm long, cut from a strip

50x4 mm. We will cut the strip with a grinder by placing a cutting disc.

Using the ruler, we look for the center on the plate and mark it with a felt-tip pen. Then we mark this point with a punch and a hammer. Having installed the plate on the drilling machine and holding it in a vise, we drill a through hole at this point. We select the minimum rotation speed of the drill. We perform such operations with all 4 plates, cut the strips with a grinder, starting from the hole and to the side of the plate.

2. We take a square-section pipe, make segments of a given size out of it, and then weld a frame out of them.

3. Now we will make a drawbar, that is, a node, or a device by means of which the trailer is attached to the bicycle. From the materials you will need the same square pipe and a strip of 25x4 mm. This assembly is attached to a tube fixed vertically on the frame using 2 tie bolts.

We drill a hole in 2 plates that form a clamp, and insert the top bolt into it. The lower one is attached perpendicularly, we pass it through the lower clamp and screw it into the hole that we drill in the vertical tube. You can drill several of these holes, then you can position the drawbar at different heights, adapting to a particular bike. Especially if you have several of them.

4. We take up the manufacture of the platform. We have declared MDF, but, perhaps, it is better if the material of the platform is waterproof. After all, if the MDF gets wet, it will crumble, and this in this case will not suit us. It is better to take laminated plywood if you have it.

So, having picked up the material, we cut out a 70x100 cm canvas from the sheet. Having placed it on the frame, we mark the points for drilling holes and draw lines for rounding the corners.

5. Install the towbar, or tow hitch. It is easy to install it using the bike rack: we mount on it that part of the detachable hinge that contains the ball. And we fix the other part of the hinge on the drawbar.

6. It remains to install the tool box. For him, just left a place in front of the platform. We fasten it with an elastic cable.

This is how a solid trailer turned out, on silent bicycle wheels and with a tool box. It has a lot of things to carry around.