Will you go to Krasnoe?
And what's in there?
Why not. You can't sit still ...
It was with such motivation that we went to the village of Krasnoe-on-Volga. They did not know anything about him. We thought we would take a look at a dusty little rural museum at a school or a cultural center. Therefore, what we saw there amazed, stunned, shocked. But first things first.
Krasnoe-on-Volga is a village in the Kostroma region, a regional center. It has about eight thousand inhabitants. But this village has a rich history. It is much older than the first documentary mention of it. Archaeological research and studies of the cultural layer indicate that people lived here even before the 10th century. The area on the banks of the Volga was too good to be empty for a long time.
The name of the village is associated with the events of the past: according to legend, a battle with enemies took place here, in which so much blood was shed that the Volga flowed bloody and the earth turned red. According to another version, the places here were "red", "beautiful". According to the third version, the village got its name due to the beauty of the products of local folk crafts, for which it was famous since ancient times.
Krasnoe-on-Volga has always been large and prosperous. The first mention of it in documents dates back to 1569, when it belonged to the Godunovs. In 1592, the Temple of the Epiphany appeared in the village, built by Dmitry Ivanovich Godunov with the blessing of the first Russian patriarch Job. At the beginning of the 17th century, two side-chapels were added to the Epiphany Church, and at the end of the same century a bell tower was erected. The temple still stands and is a unique monument of hipped stone architecture of the 16th century.
From later documents it is known that Krasnoe was taken into the oprichnina, and then Catherine II in 1762, on the basis of a decree of the Senate, handed the village over to her maid of honor: “... Baron Sergei Stroganov, and her brother, her own brother of the same regiment, retired captain Peter Butakov, we favor the village of Krasnoe with 325 souls in the Kostroma district. Subsequently, the village again passed into the treasury, and at the beginning of the 19th century Krasnoye with the surrounding villages was presented to the father of the poet Pyotr Andreevich Vyazemsky for services to the Fatherland. In August 1827, there was a terrible fire, the entire village burned out, including the Vyazemsky estate. Pyotr Andreevich gave all the victims of the fire a large cash allowance, thanks to which the village was revived again. However, the poet did not restore his estate.
In 1864, the Peter and Paul Church was erected next to the Epiphany Church.
Together they formed a wonderful ensemble in the center of the village. It was surrounded by a fence, and a monument to Emperor Alexander II was erected in front of it.
Now all this can be seen only in old photographs. In the summer of 1919, an uprising broke out in Krasnoye. The punitive detachment of the Yaroslavl GubChK under the command of Frenkel brutally dealt with local residents: about 400 people were shot indiscriminately. Among the victims are the priests of local churches. The Peter and Paul Church and the monument to the tsar were blown up, the Epiphany Church was adapted as a warehouse, even the old cemetery was destroyed.
In 1950-1960, under the leadership of the architect I. Sh. Shevelyov, the Epiphany Church carried out repair and restoration work, and the temple was returned to its original appearance, which it had by the end of the 17th century. And in 1990 the temple was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church. This is the most important architectural landmark of the village.
Today the village of Krasnoe greets us with red poppies,
attentive glances of the local "lads",
and careful sniffing.
Moreover, Vladimir Ilyich is spying suspiciously from behind the trees.
In the center of the village there is a picturesque green pond.
It is where local boys fish.
What are they catching?
These are the fish. And the bite is good.
And then the village opens up to us from the other side. In the building, behind the boy's back, there used to be an assay chamber - an organization that hallmarks jewelry and state control over the compliance of precious metal products with the samples indicated on them.
Verkhne-Volzhskaya state inspection of assay supervision for over 120 years. It is a leader in Russia not only in terms of volume, but also in terms of the quality of services provided. She now occupies this building.
And the fact that the largest assay office is located in this village is by no means an accident. Krasnoe is the leader in Russia in terms of the number of jewelers. On the territory of the urban settlement there are 10 large enterprises (factories "Diamant", "Krasnoselsky jewelry production", "Yashma", "Platina", "Aquamarine", "Rossa", "Bizher", "Silver of Russia", "Golden Patterns", "GROWTH"), medium - 5, small - 8, 98 individual entrepreneurs are registered. There is also the Krasnoselsky School of Artistic Metal Processing in Krasnoye-on-Volga.
How did it happen that an ordinary Volga village became the center of the jewelry business? Precious metals or stones are not mined here, all raw materials are imported. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the land in these places is infertile, the climate is not warm. To feed the family, it was necessary to look for other, non-agricultural earnings. Archaeological research suggests that in the 10th century copper and silver were already melted here, and jewelry was made.
We learn about this in the Museum of Jewelry and Folk Applied Arts.
The history of local peasant life opens the exhibition. Along with the traditional things that can be seen in local history museums throughout the country (spinning wheels, irons, towels,
barrels, harness),
each family of Krasny had something special, which you will not see in other places. Here's a device, for example.
This is a wire drawing machine. It was used to make wire. We worked on it like this:
This machine was also used for wire drawing.
And such a device is for making stamped jewelry.
The museum also has a set of hand tools used to make jewelry.
Household utensils, small metal objects, as well as various decorations were made right in the houses where they lived. Old photographs have preserved the daily work of Krasny's jewelers: the family at work.
From century to century, traditions and secrets of working with metal were passed from father to son.
Someone was engaged in jewelry business on their own, someone was hired as an apprentice. In the middle of the 19th century, 2,000 artisans were engaged in jewelry production in the village of Krasnoye and its surroundings. Buyers and large workshops appeared. The village processed about 2, 5 thousand poods of silver per year, which was very large-scale for that time.
By the end of the 19th century, the products of Krasnoselsky jewelry masters were found at all major fairs in Russia. The main assortment was aimed at poor buyers - inexpensive copper and silver jewelry, crosses, stamped images, small silver dishes.
With the advent of Soviet power in 1919, it was decided to create an artel for the production of various jewelry for the needs of the country. But few villagers were delighted with this turn of affairs. Being engaged in jewelry business, the people lived richly and did not want to part with their goods. The artel was created in April, and in July of the same year, the village rebelled, not wanting to accept the orders of the new government. In history, these events remained as "Krasnoselsky mutiny".
But the uprising was suppressed, and the production association "Krasnoselskaya labor production artel of metal products" (its better known name "Red Handicraftsman") began to work. In the 30s, the artel became an industrial collective farm. Local residents, in addition to their main jewelry production, were engaged in agriculture. And during the Great Patriotic War, many craftsmen went to the front, and the enterprise itself began to produce metal products for the needs of the front.
In the late 50s, the artel was renamed into Krasnoselsky Jeweler. And in 1960, the Krasnoselskaya Jewelry Factory was organized, which joined other artels (Metallist, Krasny Jeweler and Promkombinat). In 1973, the factory was named Krasnoselskaya Jewelry Factory, which later became the parent enterprise of the Yuvelirprom production association.
Since the eighties of the twentieth century, Russian jewelers have been able to officially work with precious metals. Many private jewelry workshops have opened in Krasnoye, producing various products from gold and silver.
The entire history of Krasnoye-on-Volga is reflected in the museum's expositions. As well as the development of different types of metal processing.
One of the oldest types is chasing.
With the help of such tools - chasers - frames for icons were made, and sometimes the icons themselves.
Along with chasing, casting and stamping were used.
Sometimes different metal processing techniques were used in the same product. This is especially noticeable on the covers of books.
Real works of art!
In addition to cult attributes, since ancient times, silverware (brothers, cups, salt shakers) and tools, decorative figurines and jewelry have been made from silver.
Used for decoration enamel,
and sometimes stones.
The cast figures just mesmerized me.
But filigree and wire lace brought wide fame to the Krasnosel craftsmen.
The word "skan" goes back to the Old Russian verb "skati" - "twist", "twist several strands into one thread." Along with this word is also used "filigree" (Italian filigrana, from Latin filum "thread" + granum "grain"). They denote one thing - a type of jewelry technique: openwork or soldered onto a metal background, a pattern of thin wire, smooth or twisted. The materials for the items are alloys of gold, silver, platinum, as well as copper, brass, cupronickel, nickel silver.
First, the wire is annealed to red heat, then bleached in sulfuric acid, straightened, and sorted by thickness. Then they either twist (in the form of a rope, lace, braids, Christmas trees, paths, smooth surfaces, etc.), or leave it smooth, rolled (slightly flattened) in special devices - "rollers".
Parts are bent (according to the sketch) large ones - with fingers, and small ones - with tools. The shapes of the parts are very different: curl, spiral, squares, rings, snakes, cucumbers, cloves ... Smooth and twisted wire are combined, achieving a certain effect.
Scanned patterns are openwork and overhead. Openwork is first glued to the sketch, and then soldered on it. Overheads are glued to the background (metal plate), and then soldered.
An almost finished product is dipped in a sulfuric solution to darken the metal, then polished.
Filigree is often combined with enamel (including enamel), engraving, and chasing. Filigree products are often supplemented with grain (small silver or gold balls creating a play of light and shade) and stones, crystal, mother of pearl.
When you look at these vases, salt shakers, caskets, cigarette cases, cup holders, miniature sculptures, you understand how much work and love is invested in each product.
We admired everyone.
Products made using the filigree technique or with filigree elements are very often (in order to ennoble their appearance) silver or gilded. Looks awesome.
This tea table can easily fit in the palm of your hand. And the cups and spoons are generally tiny.
Perhaps he will be just right for this family.
But, probably, like for many, for me the word “jeweler” is associated primarily with women's jewelry. There are many of them in the museum. And they are all different. You involuntarily dream about how it will look on you.
Every jeweler is an artist. Before creating a thing, the master draws it, works through all the details on paper. Therefore, it is not surprising that a part of the museum's exposition is occupied by paintings by Krasnosel artists.
This is what The Fiftieth Psalm looks like.
And so is the path to the heights of wisdom.
Each enterprise in Krasnoe-on-Volga has its own store. We go to one of them after the excursion.
It is not the largest, there are more. But I had a lot of one shop. Because I have never been to such jewelry stores. If we imagine an ordinary supermarket (“Magnet” or “Pyaterochka”), all the counters, showcases, refrigerators of which are filled with samples of (non-repeating) jewelry made of gold, silver and platinum, then it will look like the place where we are.
My head was spinning from the precious shine. You have to come here with a clear idea of \u200b\u200bwhat you want to buy. I did not know. In general, I was not ready for the fact that I would be in such a place. Therefore, I rushed around the store, wondering what I could buy for myself and as a gift for my family, and even not overpay. Until I saw the ionizers.
This is a silver piece on a chain that you put in a glass of water for a while, and silver ions penetrate into the water. Water becomes useful for humans. In addition, silver kills bacteria. At least that's what the sales assistant said. I thought it was a good choice for a gift. A certificate was given for each ionizer. In general, we purchased such a product for ourselves and as a gift (time has shown that this was not the best choice).
While they were waiting for our group, we wandered around the village. Peering into the faces of passers-by, I thought: here they are, jewelers. They are no different from us. They go to shops, cultivate vegetable gardens, walk along these streets. This is not at all like the "orthodox" image of the jeweler created in our cinema.
There is such an interesting place in the Kostroma region. Now I know exactly where to go if I want to buy something amazing.
The village of Krasnoye is obviously much older than the first documentary mention of it (1569). The area on the banks of the Volga was too good to be empty for a long time, it was not for nothing that it was called “red”, that is, “beautiful” (the toponym of the village has nothing to do with the Soviet Newspeak). In addition, important trade routes converged here, nearby, only thirty-five miles away, already
in the 12th century, Kostroma was founded, so that the inhabitants of Krasnoye had significant economic benefits from the location of the village. According to local historians, since ancient times there was a pier where merchant plows stayed.
For some time, the village belonged to representatives of the Vorontsov-Velyaminov family, descendants of the semi-legendary Murza Chet, who came from the Horde, was baptized and entered the service of the Moscow Grand Duke. In 1567, the Kostroma district was taken to the oprichnina, and the old patrimonials were evicted, providing them, however, with some compensation. The first document, where Krasnoye is mentioned, just testifies to this compensation received by Ivan Vorontsov-Velyaminov for the village of Krasnoye seized from him:
"Se az Ivan Dmitrievich son Vorontsov gave the village of Namestkovo in the Bezhetsk Upper to the Trinity house, and the Tsar and Grand Duke gave me Ivan the village of Namestkov with villages instead of my patrimony of the village of Krasnoe with villages that the sovereign took from me that village of Krasnoe in the Kostroma district" ...
Since then, Krasnoe was listed as a palace village, until it passed into the hands of the Godunovs, who rapidly rose under Ivan the Terrible and his son Fyodor, and thus returned to the descendants of the already mentioned Chet: the Godunovs, like the Velyaminovs, originated from him.
In the 17th century, Krasnoye, having been in the hands of the Godunovs for a short time, again became a palace. In 1648, by the Tsar's decree, the clerk I. Yazykov and the clerk G. Bogdanov separated his lands from neighboring lands (which belonged, for the most part, to the Ipatiev Monastery), about which the corresponding entry was preserved in the census books:
“Summer 7157 according to the sovereign's decree and letter from the Order of the Grand Palace, attributed to the clerk Ivan Fedorov, Ivan Semenovich Yazykov, and the clerk Grigory Bogdanov, the sovereign of the palace village of Krasnoye, to the villages and to the patrimony of the Ipatiev Monastery of the village of Nefedova, the village of Ivanovskoye, and the villages of Priest those villages of the sovereign of the palace village of Krasnoye were separated from the estates of the Ipatiev Monastery, and there were noblemen at the survey: Pavel Kartsev, Ilya Bedarev, Andrei Butakov, and the peasants of Prince Vasily Volkonsky, Andrei Golovin. But priest Gregory put his hand to the same signature of the village of Krasnoe Epiphany instead of the peasants. "
The fate of the palace peasants, in comparison with the serf share, was undoubtedly happier. But soon the red villagers had to "try on" themselves and the landlord's yoke. Catherine II, who came to power on the tips of noble swords, after accession generously distributed state estates to the loyal people. On November 30, 1762, with a light hand, she granted “the village of Krasnoe with 325 souls” to “the former at the court of our maid of honor Praskovya Butakova, who is now married to the Life Guards of the Cavalry Regiment after Lieutenant Baron Sergei Stroganov, and her brother, her own brother of the same regiment, retired captain Peter Butakov ".
In addition to Krasnoye, P.G.Butakov and his sister also received the Rybnaya Sloboda of Pereslavl-Zalessky and in the same Pereslavl district the village of Eskovo - more than 1,000 male souls. But Praskovya Grigorievna did not really have to be a wealthy landowner: in 1763 she died, and part of her passed to her brother Peter. He also died childless, and after his death all the richest inheritance was concentrated in the hands of his widow Avdotya Nikolaevna. However, according to the laws of that time, she was entitled to only one fourth of her husband's estate. The rest, in the absence of looking for heirs, passed into the category of "escheat" and had to return to the treasury.
And then a long "redistribution of property" began. On the one hand, a distant relative of Butakov was found, who had served at the time of his death in the Selenga district. On the other hand, the peasants of Rybnaya Sloboda and Krasnoye submitted a petition to the highest name, in which they expressed a desire to return to the Palace Department, pointing out their long-standing privileges and responsibilities in relation to the court.
At this point, Avdotya Nikolaevna Butakova began to sob, offended by the fact that the estates granted to her late husband would pass to an unknown distant relative. The Senate was forced to reconsider the decision and ultimately decided: to give Nikolai Butakov the hereditary Butakov villages in the Kostroma and Buisk districts, leave the property to the widow, and return the rest to the Palace Department. So the Krasny peasants got rid of the landlords for a while, and Nikolai Butakov received only seventy-seven instead of the expected thousand souls.
Soon, however, the process of enslavement of the inhabitants of Krasnoye began again. In 1797, Paul I granted the former secretary of mother A. V. Khrapovitsky 600 souls in the Kostroma district, including 17 souls in the village of interest to us. And a little later, Krasnoye was presented to A.I. Vyazemsky for services to the Fatherland and was inherited by his son Peter.
Pyotr Andreevich did not live in Krasnoye, but he often visited here. And in 1827, when a big fire broke out in the village, he allocated serious sums to help the victims of the fire. It is not known how badly the Epiphany Church suffered and whether it needed repairs, but the manor house burned down, and Vyazemsky decided not to restore it.
Apparently, at the same time wooden churches burned down. Which of them were restored, which were not, we do not know. By the beginning of the 20th century, in any case, an ensemble of two churches existed in the village - the cold Epiphany and the warm Peter and Paul temple, built in the typical “Ton” style in the 1860s with money from parishioners. There was also a cemetery church. There was only one parish in the village, the clergy consisted of two priests, a deacon and a psalmist.
"Krasnoselsky mutiny"
July 1919 added a tragic page to the history of the Red Church and the Epiphany Church. In Soviet historiography, the event that will be discussed was called the "Krasnoselsky rebellion". They talked about how, during the six-hour battle, the detachment of the Yaroslavl GubChK, headed by Comrade. AF Frenkel, fought courageously against counter-revolutionaries and restored the revolutionary order.
In fact, everything was somewhat different. Indeed, in Krasnoye - despite its seemingly "communist" name - "old-regime" sentiments were extremely strong. The people, engaged in jewelry craft, lived richly, did not sympathize with the arrival of the Bolsheviks, did not want to go to serve in the Red Army. And the uprising did take place, fortunately, hundreds of deserters (many with weapons) were hiding in the village and its environs. However, the first victims of Frenkel's punitive detachment were not they, but two deaf and dumb, returning from the forest with berries. They were hacked to death right on the road. The punishers then killed a Red Army soldier who was on leave from being wounded and who showed a document about it. In general, apparently, they did not understand Russian very well. Apparently, it was one of the so-called international detachments. The old residents of Krasnensk, who survived those terrible days, later called their tormentors either Latvians or Czechs.
Events took an even bloodier turn when in the neighboring village of Danilovskoye one of its residents killed a member of the detachment, an employee of the Yaroslavl Cheka A. Shcherbakov. In the conclusion of the investigative commission of the YargubChK, the ensuing "operation" was highlighted as follows: "The entire counter-revolutionary element and the kulaks with. Krasny was mercilessly shot for the murder of Comrade Shcherbakov on the same day. In human terms, this is what happened: they seized about four hundred people (without disassembling, of course, into "elements"), scattered them in the basements of the shops and, summoning them by name, shot them in front of the entire people. At the same time, it is known that the punitive forces were forced to take part in the execution of local communists - such is the "nechaev" practice.
On Saturday morning we woke up on the water and from the window we could see the following:
This is the hotel "Ostrovsky pier" (street 1 May 14), which was made in the former landing stage of the river port. Sleeping on the water is a separate pleasure. I know that shamans often use it as a medicine. It is only important that the flow enters from the side of the head and exits through the legs. Then it carries away the internal rubbish. If you sleep on the contrary, that water collects all this internal garbage, but cannot remove it from the body and it remains at the level of the head, which therefore hurts in the morning.)
There is no soundproofing in the hotel itself, so you can hear sneezing in the next room and how the maids rattle their mops in the morning, but, of course, all this is nothing compared to sleeping on the water and morning meditation without getting out of bed.
Each room on the ground floor has a balcony. And these are the views from him. Probably you can also fish in the summer.
After enjoying the views from the room, we went to the village of Krasnoe on the Volga - the center of jewelry craft. On the way we examined Kostroma. The city from the car window looked welcoming. For example, with such houses. I would still return to Kostroma.
The village of Krasnoe on the Volga is located 35 km from Kostroma. And it is known as the center of jewelry making. Today there are 570 registered jewelry enterprises out of 750 in the region in the village. And there is its own chamber, which puts samples on precious metals.
And in order to figure out what's what in this village, we first went to the local museum (Sovetskaya street, d49a) and ordered a tour (350 rubles). Museum group in contact: (quite informative), museum website.
The photo shows the actual building of the museum. If you have time, go around the building on the left side (when facing it) and find a small brick extension. They hold filigree master classes for children and adults (200-300 rubles per hour)
So, the museum, Krasnoe Selo from the 9th century was known as the center of jewelry handicraftsmen who created jewelry mainly for the common people. For example, such crosses were taken to the fair in whole carts (according to our guide).
Or such earrings and keychains, the original purpose of which was .. to replace the watch on the chain, if a person did not have enough money for the last. (and so it seemed that something heavy was lying in a watch breast pocket).
This is our guide next to the craft table, which, according to her, was and is in every hut in the village of Krasnoe on the Volga.
Or such is the technique of "casting on a natural object", which allows you to convey all the natural "cracks" of the object. And the Object itself is then removed from the resulting form.
In Soviet times, the jewelry factory produced badges and brooches. And still in a jewelry way.)
But such a brooch - lily of the valley, even I remember. Nostalgia.
In the next hall of the museum the filigree technique was presented, in fact, for which the local plant is famous. This is a twisted wire technique - copper - silver or silver plated. Products from thimble to huge pennants. In Soviet times, they were in every home. For example, such vases.
Or such hedgehogs.
Well, of course, I was most worried about jewelry.
Such a set is also interesting.
And here are sketches of jewelry. When I get big and start making jewelry, I will definitely make these earrings - top right - according to F.P.Birbaum's sketch.
But this kit is not about filigree. It's made of bone. But it is in tune with me.
In the last hall there was an exhibition of works by students of KUKHOM - the only Russian metal processing school. This is their site ... The KUKHOM building is located directly opposite the museum and it looks like interesting exhibitions are also held in the exhibition hall of the school (judging by the site). Among the exhibits, for example, here is such a decorative vase, created as a thesis.
Next time you will definitely need to look at the exhibition at this school. Well, among the student works in the museum there were not only jewelry, but also such amazingly decorated clothes. I am sure that you can buy it after the exhibition. And, for some reason, it seems to me that the price will be adequate. Because the prices in the village of Krasnoe are amazing in their adequacy.
Even in the museum, which occupies a pre-revolutionary building, which, by the way, housed the classrooms of this jewelry school, the museum has such a unique cast-iron staircase. Which itself looks like a piece of jewelry.
After thanking the guide for the story and asking her about where to go in the village for decorations, we went for them. In fact, there are no secret addresses. Almost all shops from major manufacturers are located on the central street (Sovetskaya), where the museum itself is located. So you don't need to go far - everything is close. This is, for example, a huge store from the Krasnoselsky Jewelry Factory. Located to the right of the museum, if you stand facing the entrance to the museum.
In the village of TRI jewelry factory and more than 600 jewelry workshops. Here is a list of major businesses with addresses and phone numbers. I think that some of them do not work with retail, but only with wholesale. Therefore, it makes sense to find out in advance. I would visit the following stores:
1) Almaz Holding store in the plant building, next to the museum (Sovetskaya 49)
2) Shop "Krasnograd" (street Sovetskaya d52). Opposite the plant and museum buildings. This is a prefabricated store with representatives from many local companies. Yes, prices are more expensive than in company stores at factories, but not significantly.
3) a shop at the Sokolov factory (formerly "Diamant"). Their buildings will be on the right at the entrance to the village ( pr-t Jewelers, 37). their site.
4) shop etc. Krasnoselsky jeweler (will be on the left at the entrance to the village) st. Sovetskaya d.86 is their website.
Also, I would love to find a way out to local jewelers who make designer jewelry. I saw some of the works on display at the museum. Very worthy. But where to find these masters?
The list of stores does not pretend to be complete at all. Moreover - rather the opposite - reflects only a small part. Therefore, I will be glad if in the comments share your experience of visiting the village of Krasnoe on the Volga or going out to jewelers. The fact that we will return to this village is beyond doubt. My discerning husband Vitaly, having watched how I was "intoxicated" wandering through these shops, as he said in Ali Baba's cave, "Now I know exactly what to give you for your next birthday: a trip to the village of Krasnoe with a certain amount of money.")
Well, about money. It's all true. The prices are amazing. In the first store, I even asked the seller how to read the price tag, because my head could not fit, for example, silver earrings with a rather large insert made of fionites, garnet, artificial topaz or emerald can cost ... 400 - 600 rubles , and some silver ring without inserts - 150 ... Now imagine how drunk I was, realizing that with only 1-2 thousand rubles in my pocket I can buy myself almost any piece of jewelry.
Yes, the assortment is rather monotonous - it resembles the very "carts with crosses and icons" that were taken to the fair. But even among all this diversity, you can find something interesting.
And yes, there is, of course, a department with diamonds and gold - platinum, but since I do not know the Moscow prices for them, I have nothing to compare with. But I suspect that they are two or three times lower than the Moscow ones, as well as the prices for silver.
As a result, I went with such silver earrings with topaz from Sokolov for 1800 rubles (which was much more expensive than similar earrings from other companies, but I liked these.) And a ring for them, also with topaz, but from another manufacturer for 400 rubles ...
In a word, having enjoyed the most beautiful available, we finally left this glorious village, going to the no less beautiful - the Big Water of the Volga River. And then we finally understood the true meaning of the name of the village KRASNOE on the Volga. See for yourself: Times:
See for yourself: two. (This is me trying to practically "drink the Don Volga with silk")
See for yourself: three.
Well, we went to the amazing place - to the ferry crossing, which operates in summer. In the summer, you can come to the village of Krasnoye without visiting Kostroma and saving 30 kilometers.
Well, meanwhile the sun began to drop and we turned our wheels on the way back. We again drove through the village of Krasnoe, past the 17th century Epiphany Church. We didn't get inside (it was closed).
And soon we were already back in Kostroma (only 35 km) at the gates of the Ipatiev Monastery, which was our next point for this day. However, as I have already mentioned, the official tourist sites did not accept us on this trip. Because we arrived at 15:30, and the monastery was open until 16:00, It seemed unreasonable to pay about 1000 rubles for entrance tickets for 30 minutes, so we exhaled happily (because we were already filled with impressions and reflections for this day), went to a local shop, buying "linen towels" for souvenirs (Kostroma is famous for its linen factories).
and went to dinner at the already familiar "Gastronomic cafe" in the Trading Rows (We did not find food in the village of Krasnoye, only gold and silver, and therefore we were hungry). On the way to the cafe, we wondered where the Kremlin is in this city. At some point, they realized that there was no Kremlin, but there were shopping arcades of boundless volume. Well, the truth - the city of merchants - what kind of Kremlin is it?
We were delighted with this discovery, had a delicious dinner and went to Yaroslavl, to the Modern hotel. Finally rest ahead of the next day and the way home.
And to be continued.
You can read the beginning of the story about this journey here.
From Kostroma we decided to go to the village of Krasnoe-on-Volga (~ 35 km). We were supposed to run into the local filigree museum there and look at the Church of the Epiphany. They imagined a small village, a museum in a wooden hut, nothing more. The village greeted us with a colorful banner: “Welcome! We are celebrating 800 years of our Krasnoselsky jewelry industry. " It turned out that the village is very rich and strong, thanks to local jewelry factories: one state-owned and several commercial ones. There are shops that sell a variety of gold jewelry from each enterprise.
For example, state plant and with him the Karat store, with a chic interior even by Moscow standards; plant "Aquamarine" and a shop of the same name in a brick mansion; plant "Platina" and shop from him; plant "Diamant" and shop, etc. But more on that later. A rich village, there is a pier here, in summer motor ships from Kostroma float here.
Filigree Museum or Museum of jewelry art of Krasnoselsk masters is located in one of the red brick buildings of the jewelry state factory and worked on a shortened schedule up to 15 hours. So we hurried there. The expositions are located in several halls and we go around all, admiring the marvelous filigree decorations. What masters made them! All Heroes of Socialist Labor, but before such titles were given for a reason. What is not a product is just a fairy tale - the soul is invested in them. We looked at a tiny set on the same tiny table, where a cup the size of a ladybug ...
Photo from the Scani Museum from lat
The fabric is wire lace.
In Old Russian, the words "twist, roll" sounded like "skat".
First, the wire is annealed to red heat, then bleached in sulfuric acid, straightened, and sorted by thickness. The wire is either twisted longer or left smooth, and then rolled (flattened a little) in special devices "rollers".
A full-size sketch of the future product is required. A wire drawing is called scanned patterns (mosaic), and is done in detail. Details are bent according to the sketch. Large ones - with fingers, and small ones - with tools. The shapes of the parts are very different: curl, spiral, squares, rings, pigtails, snakes, cucumbers, cloves, etc. Smooth and twisted wire are combined to achieve a certain effect.
Scanned patterns are openwork and overhead. Openwork is first glued to the sketch, and then soldered on it. Overheads are glued to the background (metal plate), and then soldered.
An almost finished product is dipped in a sulfuric solution to darken the metal, then polished.
Photo from bor1
IN the last hall of the Museum turned out to be an exhibition of paintings. At first, I personally, somehow did not even want to switch from filigree to some provincial landscapes, and then, looking closely, I could not tear myself away. The artist, a young local woman, unfortunately did not remember her surname. The plots are rustic, but so bright, sunny and positive that if the material possibilities allowed, I would buy five paintings at once without hesitation.
Here, for example: evening, a river, a thin girl sitting on the bridge and washing herself out of a handful. Or a still life: in the garden, on a table in the very sun, there is an armful of daisies and cornflowers in a vase. It is written so sunny that you literally feel the June heat and hear the bees buzzing.
Another thing: a wooden country house, a lush bush of blooming rose hips under a carved window and a little girl is playing a ball. Very light paintings.
The grandmothers on duty proudly informed us that “Lenka, our artist, KrasnOselskaya. Mustache people walk and they like it, mustache are admired "... They told us that small paintings of her can be bought in the lobby. We jumped out there, but, unfortunately, there were sold such not very successful etudes from 3 tr., And her best works were, no doubt, at the exhibition.
Then they drove up to the Church of the Epiphany... It was also closed, but the place where it is, indeed, as it is written in the guidebook, is surprisingly calm and blessed. We felt it. 
*
And then we drove up, stopped and went to jewelry stores. If you have a desire to get rich, then you will not leave without a purchase. I liked the silver spoons in the store from the state plant. There is a large selection of them, prices are around 600 rubles. They say that if babies are fed with a silver spoon, they will not get sore throat. Spoons are also given for christenings. There were no filigree products at all, only a souvenir horse and an egg were seen. Nothing special, (and what were in the museum!), And prohibitively expensive. Of course, there are no comrades in taste and color, but I realized that each factory has its own style of jewelry. The state has the most traditional, and personally I liked the most of the products in "Diamant" - this is a red brick mansion right at the entrance to the village. Fashionable type.
In general, we were looking for a cross for my other half. We looked through a huge number of them, but we did not choose anything, although they saw very beautiful ones. Half of mine talked all the time "Not. I won't, I don't want to, I don't like it "... Well, what can you do!
**
After arriving from Kostroma, we somehow accidentally watched a film about “criminal Kostroma gold”. I got sick. It turns out that I promoted jewelry points of a very muddy origin. Therefore, you should still trust the classic gold products of the state plant "Karat". No wonder the husband turned away from the counters, no wonder!
On the road from Red decided to make a stop in the village of Poddubny, in our guide it was written that there must be seen ancient temple of St. Nicholas the Pleasure... Which we did. 
We stopped and approached, but the church was closed. We stand upset, suddenly a woman with grocery bags stomps past.
She stopped, smiles and asks okay: "Hello. What do you want? "
We talk: "Why, they wanted to get to the church, but it is closed."
She is interested in: "Do you want to look at the temple, or put candles?"
We answer: "I would like to do this and that"
The woman says: “So I'm running away now, I'll reveal it to you. I have the key. "
She ran into the neighboring hut, brought the keys and opened the church for us. On the way, he says that rural people have been collecting money for a long time, and, finally, they have accumulated the necessary amount, and the priest, Glory to Thee, Lord, led a warm welcome to the central part of the church.
We entered, we admire the paintings. We noticed that the main background color of the Kostroma churches is a luscious blue or dark blue, like flax flowers. After all, we assumed, flax is grown in Kostroma, and it has just such blue-blue flowers. To light the candles, the woman took us to two ancient icons in silver frames - Nicholas the Wonderworker and Paraskeva Pyatnitsa. The lights of our candles lit up their dark faces. And so it was to my heart Paraskeva, I do not know how to say in words. Here's to my soul. Good. 
* Already at home I read that it turns out in ancient times the Slavs worshiped the goddess, protector of women - Mokoshi. She helped to harvest crops, farm properly, sew and spin, cook food, manage her husband and children. After the adoption of Orthodoxy, Mokosh began to be called Paraskeva Friday and the day in her honor was celebrated - October 27. Here's how!
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30 km southeast of Kostroma, there is a former village, now an urban-type settlement, Krasnoe-on-Volga, commonly referred to simply as Krasnoe. The jewelry craft in the local area has been known since the 9th century (even before the Slavic colonization). In the 19th century, this trade was carried out in the district not only in the village of Krasnoye, but also in fifty villages and villages on both sides of the Volga. Krasnoselskie products made of filigree (the finest twisted silver-web) with inserts of various stones are widespread in the Russian market, as well as individual pebbles-key chains, handicrafts made from them and other decorations using precious metals.
Krasnoe-on-Volga lies on the left bank of the Volga River, 35 kilometers southeast of Kostroma. The settlement is included in the List of Historical Cities of Russia. The layout of Krasnoye is radial-circular, similar to the capital's - the center is Red Square, from which the streets radiate out like rays: Sovetskaya, Lenin, Lunacharsky and K. Liebknecht. All sights can be combined into one easy route.
Local legend says that the name of the settlement comes from a bloody battle with foreign troops. After the conclusion of peace, women "wiped their tears with their skirts." According to another version, the village got its name due to the beauty of the products of local folk crafts, for which it was famous since ancient times. The locals are called red-sellers.
At the present time, Krasnoe is a cozy green settlement, clearly old in appearance: in addition to five-story buildings, there are a lot of private wooden houses, as well as large stone mansions, which are undoubtedly architectural monuments. The latter are the most interesting and unusual. In Soviet times, Krasnoye was part of the Golden Ring, but not because of its jewelry orientation, but because of a rare architectural landmark - the Epiphany tent church in 1592, standing exactly in the center of the village, on Red Square. Until the 1930s. next to it stood a five-domed snow-white cathedral, later blown up. Now at this place there is nothing reminding of its existence - only a small square has been laid out.