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What is the purpose of men wearing a tie? Tie: a stylish accessory or a symbol of slavery? Further history and evolution of the accessory

The name "tie" in Russian comes from niderl. halsdoek and German. h.Halstuch, which means "cravat". However, in European languages, another root is more common - from fr. cravate, which comes from "croat" ("Croat").

First mentions

The first mention of ties can be found in the history of ancient Egypt, where a piece of fabric of the correct geometric shape, thrown over the shoulders, served as a kind of symbol of the social status of its owner. Also, one of the first ties was worn by the ancient Chinese. This is evidenced by stone statues near the tomb of Emperor Shihuangdi - on the necks of nobles and warriors tied bandages resembling modern ties in shape. However, these headbands were too far from modern ties, both in terms of the way they were worn and in form, and were deprived of the main attribute of a modern tie - the knot.
Prior to this discovery, Roman legionnaires wearing the so-called "focale" were considered the inventors of the tie. Their images are preserved on the column of Emperor Trajan, erected in honor of his victories in 113 AD. e. On the bas-reliefs of the column, encircling it with a spiral ribbon, one can count 2,500 figures of Roman soldiers in armor. Most of them have knotted handkerchiefs around their necks. The appearance of neckerchiefs in ancient Rome marked the beginning of the era of ties in the modern sense of the word.

Middle Ages

Since the end of the 16th century, men have been wearing camisoles. And as a decoration they put on a round corrugated hard collar. Often it was a large disc covering the neck, which could reach several centimeters in thickness. It was made of white fabric and starched so that it would not lose its shape.

Over time, he was replaced by a wide turn-down collar with teeth that covered the shoulders. This style of collar was sometimes called "Van Dyck". It was worn, for example, by the Puritans.

It is assumed that when Croatian officers, who in the 17th century wore bright silk neckerchiefs, as a reward for their courage and valor shown during the Thirty Years' War, were invited to the court of the French Queen Anne of Austria, their unusual accessory was noticed by King Louis XIV himself, who he could not resist and also tied something similar to himself, becoming the first trendsetter of the tie fashion in France, and therefore throughout Europe. Hence one of the versions of the origin of the French word cravate (French - tie), as a derivative of the self-name of the Croats.

In the 17th century, a long vest came into fashion, which men wore under a regular camisole. A scarf was tied around the neck. It was wrapped several times around the neck, and its free ends hung down on the chest. Picturesque canvases of the late 17th century indicate that by that time such neckerchiefs had gained extreme popularity. They were made from muslin, cambric and even lace.

There were many options for knots on such a scarf. Sometimes, so that it would not move out, a silk ribbon was tied over it, making a large bow under the chin. The bow looked like a modern bow tie. As you know, there were at least a hundred ways to tie a neckerchief. They say that the English dandy Brummel (Brummel), who influenced men's fashion, could spend all morning tying a neckerchief according to all the rules.

In the 18th century, a scarf with long ends began to be called a tie, and in the second half of the 19th century, it already looked like a modern tie. It was also called a self-tied tie. Collared shirts came into fashion. Now the tie was tied in a knot under the chin, and its long ends hung down on a starched shirt. It was at this time that the tie became what we know it today. It should be noted that without the subsequent spread of the fashion for wearing ties in England, they would hardly have acquired the importance that they have in modern business fashion. In England, wearing ties was elevated to the rank of high art, and the gentleman was offered a choice of up to a hundred different ways of tying. It was also believed that the most serious insult for a man could be a statement about his tie, "an insult from which can only be washed away with blood."

During the French Revolution (1789-1799), the color "croat" indicated a person's political beliefs. In the 19th century, the dandies of European society rediscovered this accessory for themselves. It was then that the tie ceased to be the property of some military men and politicians and migrated to the wardrobe of ordinary citizens.

In 1827, the famous writer Honore de Balzac wrote a book called The Art of Wearing a Tie, in which he described the aesthetic necessity of tying a tie. The Byronian tie was a wide-knotted handkerchief that did not tighten the throat. The "tragic" black tie was part of the mourning and uniform. "Walter Scott" was sewn from checkered fabric. The white tie was intended for ceremonial dress of balls, evenings and dinner parties; it was supposed to be worn with a tailcoat or tuxedo, but in no case with a jacket. It should be added that in the time of Balzac, ties were silk, woolen, satin with various patterns.

Modernity

In 1924, the final “no” was said to all variants of neckerchiefs and scarves: the American entrepreneur Jesse Langsdorf patented his “perfect tie”. Such a tie was sewn - and is still being sewn - from three parts, cut along the oblique. The consequence of this patent was the widespread displacement of transverse ties and standardization long ties with stripes, slant check or paisley. These drawings became the basis for English club and college-ties, allowing their owners in such a simple way to report their belongings.

Do you still wear ties? Then we ... no, we are not going to you, but we will tell you why, perhaps, it is worth abandoning this wardrobe item. Scientists have discovered interesting patterns. In addition, we will understand the difference between our and foreign doctors.

Note to office workers

Yes, indeed, now there are already those who do not recognize the wearing of a tie, but nevertheless, the majority prefer this item, because it adds solidity to the look, well, in general, “it’s customary”. But Western scientists conducted an interesting experiment.

They took 15 people who like ties and those who don't. They used MRI to understand how the brain is supplied with blood for both. It turned out that the blood flow to the brain in adherents of ties is 7.5% worse than their counterparts.

Scientists attribute these figures to the fact that the tie pinches the carotid artery and the blood that goes from the heart to the brain does not reach its destination.

A tie provokes eye diseases and problems with the musculoskeletal system

Other scientists also do not make life easier for the population and put pressure on them with their data. The tie also interferes with blood flow through the jugular vein, in addition to the carotid artery. Which, in turn, leads to stagnation of blood in the visual system, and this increases eye pressure. Increased intraocular pressure is considered as one of the factors in the development of diseases such as glaucoma and cataracts. In other words, adherents of the classic office style are at risk.

But the brain and eyes are not the only targets and victims of harmful accessories. Studies say that the musculoskeletal system can also suffer. Scientists argue that the tie restricts the freedom of movement of those who wear it, in contrast to those who do not use such an attribute. The conclusions seem to have a psychological basis. Although everyday experience says that many people cannot think properly if they are wearing a tie. On the other hand, it is probably a matter of habit. But the data suggests that there is a physiological basis for this: tension builds up in the trapezius muscle, which can lead to various injuries.

But surgeons suffer the most

In general, one admires the zeal with which Western scientists explore what would seem to be the simplest, everyday features of our existence. But the following information is so amazing that you don’t even know how to relate to it.

Texas scientists have found that clinical surgeons at a New York hospital need to worry more than others. Because many pathogens of dangerous diseases have accumulated on the surface of their ties.

If you recall the image of our doctor, then somehow he does not appear in a tie. But when we remember the shots from the film "Doctor House", then everything falls into place, there really are many doctors wearing ties, probably not especially noticing them. But regardless of whether our doctors can outdo their Western counterparts in style, it's still an entertaining fact.

This is how ordinary household trifles and health can be bizarrely connected. The effect of a tie on the body can be compared to cigarettes: they also affect our vitality day after day, seemingly imperceptibly, but inevitably. Think next time, is it worth wearing a tie?

Author Kovalevsky Vasily asked a question in Social life and show business

WHY DO YOU NEED A TIE? and... and got the best answer

Answer from
HISTORY: The first mention of ties can be found in the history of Ancient Egypt, where a piece of regular geometric shape, thrown over the shoulders, served as a kind of symbol of the social status of its owner. Also, one of the first ties was worn by the ancient Chinese. This is evidenced by stone statues near the tomb of Emperor Shihuan Di - on the necks of nobles and warriors are tied bandages resembling modern ties in shape. However, these headbands were too far from modern ties, both in terms of the way they were worn and in form, and were deprived of the main attribute of a modern tie - the knot.
The appearance of neckerchiefs in ancient Rome marked the beginning of the era of ties in the modern sense of the word. However, the year 1660 is considered to be the real victory of this symbol of men's wardrobe. After the victory over the Janissaries of the Turkish Sultan, Croatian warriors (at that time Croatia was part of the vast Austro-Hungarian Empire periodically fought off the ferocious Ottoman warriors) were invited to the court of the French King Louis the Fourteenth as a reward for their courage and valor shown on the battlefield. Officers of the Croatian army then wore colorful silk neckerchiefs. The French king liked the new piece of clothing so much that he could not resist and also tied something similar on himself, becoming the first trendsetter in the tie fashion of France, and therefore the whole of Europe. Hence one of the versions of the origin of the French word cravatte (fr. - tie), as a derivative of the self-name of the Croats. 1
It should be noted that without the subsequent spread of the fashion for wearing ties in England, they would hardly have acquired the importance that they have in modern business fashion. In England, wearing ties was elevated to the rank of high art, and the gentleman was offered a choice of up to a hundred different ways of tying. It was also believed that the most serious insult for a man could be a statement about his tie, "an insult from which can only be washed away with blood." 1
In 1827, the famous writer Honore de Balzac wrote a book entitled The Art of Wearing a Tie, in which he described the aesthetic necessity of tying a tie. The Byronian tie was a wide-knotted handkerchief that did not tighten the throat. The "tragic" black tie was part of the mourning and uniform. "Walter Scott" was sewn from checkered fabric. The white tie was intended for ceremonial dress of balls, evenings and dinner parties; it was supposed to be worn with a tailcoat or tuxedo, but in no case with a jacket. It should be added that in the time of Balzac, ties were silk, woolen, satin with various patterns.
in 1924, the whole variant of neckerchiefs and scarves was given a final "no": the American entrepreneur Jesse Langsdorf patented his "perfect tie". Such a tie was sewn - and is still being sewn - from three parts, cut along the oblique. The consequence of this patent was the widespread displacement of cross ties and the standardization of long ties in stripes, slant checks or pay-sleeves. These designs became the basis for English club and college ties, allowing their wearers to communicate their affiliation in such a simple way.
SORRY, but the rest can be found here

First person

Why is he needed, this tie?

Once in the Pamir mountains, an old Tajik explained to me that we Westerners are wild, too dependent on the tastes of rich people. "For example, why is this?" the old man asked, tugging at the collar of my shirt, from under which a tie was visible.

Once in the Pamir mountains, an old Tajik explained to me that we Westerners are wild, too dependent on the tastes of rich people. "For example, why is this?" the old man asked, tugging at the collar of my shirt, from under which a tie was visible. My pointed collar looked strange against the backdrop of a traditional robe, the clothes of a variety of local people. And yet, without challenging the antiquity of Asian traditions, I could only wear a bathrobe in the bathroom at home. And this dressing gown, cut somewhere in Europe, could also be with a collar, although a tie is not supposed to go with it ...

At home I have a whole album of tie patterns by which graduates of prestigious English institutions can identify each other. There is also an album of regimental ties from various British military units and a list of ties from aristocratic clubs. An impractical, meaningless piece of clothing suddenly becomes decisive in a variety of situations. The look, quality, price of a tie, almost the same as the company and the price of a watch on the wrist, often serve as a pass to certain circles of society. You can be ironic about this as much as you like, but in the halls of the casino, where multi-thousand bets are played, they are also asked to come in suits and black bow ties. It's like the badge of a prestigious company.

I remember how, for the first time in my life, I was invited to a presidential reception in Washington, scratching my head, because the invitation indicated that you must definitely wear a black bow tie. But such a tie requires a shirt with a special cut, and preferably a special jacket, which I did not have then. I had to rent a shirt and a tuxedo. However, when Gorbachev first came to the United States on a state visit, the proletarian consciousness won. We, the members of his team, were warned that one should not fall for overseas tricks and that one should go to an appointment with their president in ordinary suits with native ties. So they went, to the fear of the bourgeoisie ...

Many mods really went from top to bottom. They say that wide dresses with an uncomfortable crinoline hoop appeared due to the fact that a certain empress wished to hide her pregnancy, and senseless cuffs on trousers appeared after the ruler soaked his trousers in a puddle and had to tuck them up. The bald king introduced everyday wigs, and his crooked-legged mistress introduced long dresses. I often remember the practical Tajik, mentioned at the beginning, who believed that clothes should be purely practical, did not understand why a collar was needed, and told how to make a tablecloth for a feast with loved ones from a turban, and you can hide with a dressing gown. What else is needed for a comfortable life?

Recently I had a chance to read the poems of a Kyiv poet, a former Central Committee worker, who today poetizes those same "kuffas of ordinary workers" that he never wore. The Tsekovsky "difficult workers" were dressed in the same Finnish suits, which made officials look like overgrown children from an orphanage. It was also a class sign, no less expressive than bow ties. By the way, ties are just a piece of clothing of common origin. About 300 years ago, back in the 17th century, Croatian cavalrymen (croats) arrived in Paris with scarves around their necks, bringing their folk decoration to the capital of world fashion. The Ukrainian word "croatka" (the same sound with German, Polish and some others) came from there, from "croatka" - we just forgot about it. And in fashion, everything has its own meaning and its own history. There is nothing meaningless around us, it is worth remembering this ...

The stylists who make recommendations for the formation of a basic men's wardrobe unanimously argue that a modern man should have at least 5-7 ties for different occasions. A modern gentleman cannot do without a pair of classic, a few casual and 1-2 ties for formal occasions.

Important! No self-respecting person shows up at a business meeting or formal event without a tie. Everyone wears this elegant attribute: actors, musicians, politicians, officials and businessmen.

Why, then, do men who prefer functional and comfortable things, with enviable constancy, tie a seemingly meaningless piece of stitched fabric around their necks? What does this piece of clothing symbolize?

The fact is that a tie is not only an indicator of elegant taste, but also evidence of the status of a man, his social and financial position. An expensive tie from a well-known brand is able to unobtrusively emphasize success. and high position of its owner.

Story

Modern ties in their usual form appeared at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. However, many centuries ago, men loved to decorate their necks with accessories, performing the same functions as a tie in our time.

The ancestors of the modern tie are the scarves of the Roman legionnaires and the neckerchiefs of the inhabitants of Ancient Egypt and China.

These attributes were the insignia. They were worn only by warriors and noble nobles.

Lace neckerchiefs entered the European fashion under Louis XIV. In the 18th century, they were transformed into a frill - a lace frill lying on the chest in lush folds.

A few decades later, ties changed: they turned into long, narrow and smooth strips of multi-colored fabric that were tied around the neck.

Gathered under the chin with a beautiful knot and secured with a precious pin.

In the 19th century, all noble men wore them.

The modern tie was invented and patented in 1924 by American businessman Jesse Langsdorf. Products from three pieces of fabric, cut diagonally, are still considered the height of style and elegance.

The history of the tie.

Varieties

Ties vary in width, color, style and material quality.

There are many models of ties, which are divided into 2 groups: classic ties and ties for special occasions.

Classic

Classic ties are the most popular.

They are suitable for both everyday wear and formal occasions.

There are some of the most common options, here are the title and description:

For special occasions

There are events where it is impossible to appear in a classic tie: they require more sophisticated and intricate models. These models include:


Trends 2018

In 2018, men who are interested in fashion trends choose the following tie options:

  • models of medium width (6–7 cm) with a voluminous knot (worn with a suit, knitted jumper or vest);
  • narrow tie-ribbons in black, blue or brown (combined with a shirt and jacket);
  • models with traditional ornaments: transverse, oblique or longitudinal stripes, specks or geometric patterns;
  • purple, gray-green, orange and red options (combined with plain suits in discreet shades).

Important! Multi-colored bow ties, which until recently were at the peak of popularity, are gradually going out of fashion. Now it is not recommended to complement everyday images with a butterfly.

Rules for wearing an accessory

To make the image look elegant and harmonious, try to follow the following rules for choosing the type of tie:


There are wide (8–9 cm), medium (6–7 cm) and narrow (less than 6 cm) ties. The following tips will help you choose the right width:

  • the width of the tie should be proportional to the width of the shirt collar and the size of the lapels of the jacket;
  • wide ties are suitable for large men with broad shoulders, narrow ones for slender young people;
  • if you don’t know which option to give preference to, choose a medium-width model: it always looks stylish and does not go out of fashion;
  • wear a wide model with a loose shirt, a narrow one with a fitted one.

Important! When you tie a tie, make sure that it is long enough: its tip should cover the belt buckle by 2 cm. If you are not wearing trousers, but jeans, a small gap is allowed between the buckle and the tie.

Care and storage

In order for the tie to retain an attractive appearance for a long time, you must follow the rules for storage and care of this accessory:

  1. wash and iron the tie only according to the rules that are on the etiquette, dirt can only be removed with a dry brush;
  2. do not remove the tie over your head and do not leave the knot tied;
  3. place the removed tie on a hanger and let it hang: a good fabric will quickly straighten out and take on its original form;
  4. to smooth the fabric, wind the tie around your finger, remove the resulting roll and leave it like this for several hours;
  5. store ties separately from other things so that they do not wrinkle.

If you have to spend a lot of time traveling, and you don’t want to be without a tie, buy special cases. In them, the fabric will not wrinkle and will not get dirty.