Our portal has already talked about what opportunities open up for a home craftsman who decides to make furniture on his own. In the article you can read about the basic principles and "tricks" used by professional carpenters and the right master cabinetmakers.

In continuation of the topic, in this article we talk about what tools a novice carpenter needs, and which of the popular sets should be purchased “for growth”.

• Where to start choosing a tool for making furniture;
• Is it possible to make high-quality furniture without a special tool;
• What is the minimum set of good hand tools needed for a beginner carpenter. Our rating;
• How to choose power tools for the workshop;
• What power tools do professional cabinet makers use. The best tool from a professional point of view;
• How to approach the arrangement of a furniture workshop;
• What is the difference between jointer and planer.

How to approach the choice of carpentry tools

A firm decision was made - to engage in independent furniture manufacturing. However, one desire is not enough - you need an appropriate tool. This is where the main "pitfall" lies.

Many novice craftsmen believe that it is impossible to make high-quality furniture without a large assortment of expensive and professional tools. The result of this popular approach is well known. A beginner either does not dare to start working, believing that “without this device I will not succeed”, or falls into the other extreme - he “runs” around the shops, buying the best tool, not even understanding whether he needs one or the other, and how to use it.

However, at the initial stage, it is quite possible to get by with a minimum set of reliable amateur-level tools. The main thing is to give yourself the opportunity to consciously approach the choice, guided by the principle: buy tools for the carpentry workshop as needed.

A good example of this approach is a bed made by the spouse of a member of our portal with the nickname Regina Peter.

Regina Peter FORUMHOUSE user

My husband and I moved to the countryside for permanent residence. We needed a double bed. The husband decided to make it by all means himself, although before that he didn’t even hold a small hammer in his hands, and didn’t make anything at all. My husband told me his vision, and I drew a bed in a special program. As a result, we settled on this option.

The boards and balusters that went to the legs of the bed were bought from a nearby building materials store. The work began to boil, and this is what the novice master ended up with.

The most interesting thing is that this correct bed was made with a minimum set of hand tools, and all the details were cut out with a reliable garden saw “taken away” from my wife!

Regina Peter

It was possible to buy a ready-made bed in a store, but the pleasure of work, and most importantly, the end result, cannot be compared with anything. The husband, as they say, got a taste, continued to work as a carpenter, and after the bed he made an insulated front door, and then a table.

Conclusion: you need to start making furniture with the manufacture of simple products that require the most elementary reliable tools: stools, simple beds, simple tables, shelves, etc. And only after the passage of time, with the growth of skill, you can think about acquiring an expensive and professional tool. This is the only way to ensure that the purchase will be in demand, and will not be a waste of money.

In "furniture carpentry" the main thing is to "feel" the tree, learn how to use the tool, understand whether you like this business. Only in this case you will create products that will become your pride.

You should also figure out in advance what kind of furniture you will make, cabinet - cabinets, or entire kitchen sets, etc., or upholstered - sofas, armchairs. Or the soul lies more in solid furniture of the author's work, with an abundance of complex figured and carved elements. Each direction requires its own, specific tool, but you need to start with the formation of a basic and universal set.

The most popular tools for the home carpenter.

Wood carpentry tool

To simplify your task, all the necessary tools can be divided into three large groups:

1. Hand tool;
2. Equipment and consumables;
3. Power tool.

Let's take a closer look at each of these groups.

Hand tools include:

• Hand saw for wood and metal;
• Hand planers and jointers;
• Manual jigsaw;
• A set of chisels for wood;
• Iron nail hammer;
• Mallet with a rubber or wooden striker;
• Furniture stapler;
• Pliers;
• Shoe knife;
• Awl;
• adjustable wrench;
• A set of screwdrivers with a straight or Phillips edge;
• wire cutters.

Equipment and consumables:

• Vice for a workbench;
• Clamps. They act as a "third hand", allowing you to fix the details during processing or gluing;
• Pencil and marker;
• Forstner drill. They are used for drilling non-through holes with a flat bottom (for internal hinges) in wood and board materials: chipboard, MDF, etc. Due to their design, such drills do not tear wood fibers, leaving behind a smooth surface;
• Ring crowns for wood. They are used for cutting a through round hole of large diameter (20-130 mm) in wood, chipboard sheets, etc.;
• Drills for metal with a diameter of 2 to 10 mm, in increments of 0.5 to 1 mm;
• Drills with a hard-alloy tip. Used for drilling concrete to hang shelves, etc.;
• Screwdriver bit set;
• A set of drills for wood, with a diameter of 2 to 12 mm.

The measuring tool should be singled out in a separate group.

This includes:

• Roulette length from 3 to 5 meters;
• Metal ruler from 50 to 100 cm long;
• Metal square with a side of 30 cm;
• Level 50-60 cm long.

Complementing this set with just an impact drill and a screwdriver, a person with “hands” can do a lot. In addition to the manufacture of furniture, these tools can be used for any repairs in the house or in the country.

Also, do not forget about the need for a workbench, because. it is impossible to work normally "on the knee" and get a quality product.

Sitnikoff FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.

A furniture workshop is unthinkable without a workbench. I made my first workbench from a 100x50 mm board. The boards were "junk" - left over from waste at a construction site. Therefore, the workbench turned out to be not the most successful, but it still serves me as an assembly table.

Choosing a power tool for a carpentry workshop

If there are usually no problems with choosing a hand tool, then when it comes to choosing a power tool, a lot of questions arise. Therefore, it is important to make a basic list of the essentials.

To the so-called. basic power tools, without which it is impossible or difficult to make furniture, include:

• Electric drill;
• Electric screwdriver;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Belt grinder.

This set is enough to start making, albeit not the most complex, but high-quality products. In the future, with the growth of skill and the complexity of the work, the list of the best tools will be replenished.

When choosing a power tool for a novice master, the main thing is not to go to extremes, buying only the cheapest models or chasing expensive professional products from one high-quality manufacturer. It is worth adhering to the golden mean "price / quality" and choosing a tool not for its cost, but one that will be convenient for you to use.

Novice carpenters often have a question: do the workshop need such power tools as a milling machine, jointer, thickness gauge, circular electric saws and at what stage they need to be purchased and what to be guided by when buying, except for the price.

Archimed FORUMHOUSE user

I thought about equipping my workshop. I need to process boards for wall cladding, and in the future I plan to make furniture. With a good hand tool, everything is clear, but there are many questions about the use of an electric one, and you need to “get into the budget”. I need expert advice on what to buy, what I need in the future. So far my rating is:

• drill;
• screwdriver;
• grinder;
• jigsaw;
• electric planer;
• circular saw;
• manual frezer;
• thicknesser machine.

Topic created archimed, provoked a wide response. Many professional craftsmen offered their options for completing the workshop.

Sitnikoff FORUMHOUSE user

When I first started carpentry, I needed to make a simple workbench, and I only had: a bow saw, a drill, an old planer, a few chisels, Forstner drills and a shoe knife. All. But I made a workbench. Now, after 10 years of carpentry, my rating of the best tools is as follows:

• Milling table with milling cutter;
• Manual frezer;
• Belt and eccentric grinder;
• Miter saw;
• Table circular saw;
• Several electric planes;
• Electric jigsaw, electric drills and screwdrivers;
• Dust removal system;
• Grinder;
• Compressor for a carpentry workshop with a spray gun;
• Planer machine.

This is not the whole list of power tools. Plus, I had to pick up a lot of hand tools.

Moreover, Sitnikoff does not plan to stop there and is thinking of acquiring:

• jointer;
• band saw;
• drilling machine;
• wood lathe;
• Install a chip removal and air ventilation system.

Summarizing

Answering the question asked Archimed-m, we can say that a possible set of tools for a furniture maker is directly proportional to his budget, the planned volume and complexity of work, and, importantly, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe workshop. After all, the entire tool will have to be placed somewhere - so that it is convenient to use, and access to it is safe, not limited or difficult.

You can make furniture, working in a limited area, in an apartment, on a balcony, in a corridor. But any master sooner or later comes to the need to build his own workshop. Moreover, a well-planned workshop, with communications connected, well insulated, in which you can work all year round, regardless of weather conditions and daylight hours.

To have a guide to the future and understand what you need to equip a furniture workshop "for growth", you can use the following list. This:

• Stationary circular saw and milling machine;
• Miter saw;
• Circular plunge-cut saw with guide rail;
• Band-saw;
• thicknessing machine;
• Stationary jointer.

On the last two machines, attention should be focused, because. sometimes novice carpenters get confused about their purpose.

With a jointer, the knife shaft is located in the table, i.e. below, so this machine sets a flat plane - the "base". The jointer, unlike the planer, does not make the workpiece of the same thickness.

At the thickness gauge, the knife is located on top, so this machine makes a plane parallel to the “base”. If you run a workpiece with a “screw” or “hump” into the thickness gauge, then at the output we will get a planed curved workpiece.

Therefore, first we set the workpiece to a plane (we make a “base”), removing the “screw” or “saber” with a jointer, then we plan the workpiece to a given thickness with a thickness gauge.

Conclusion: it is necessary to acquire an expensive, complex, professional tool not “in reserve”, but only by switching to new stage his development as a master. In other words, you buy this or that tool only when you realize that your carpentry workshop is already a small workshop and you cannot make any furniture parts without it.

When working with power tools and machines, safety precautions must be observed. Namely: put on goggles and tight clothes, fasten your sleeves, put your hair under your headgear for reliability. In the carpentry workshop, in a conspicuous place, there must be a first aid kit.

And what should be the workplace of a cabinet maker.

Among the malfunctions of a screwdriver, there are several characteristic ones that are inherent in the devices of leading manufacturers and cheaper models:

The screwdriver does not turn on;
- extraneous whistles and squeaks are heard during operation;
- strong runout of the clamping chuck;
- turnovers are not regulated;
- does not switch reverse;
- after turning off the button, the motor continues to rotate;
- the screwdriver turns on for a fraction of a second and wedges.

Screwdriver device: 1 - speed controller, 2 - reverse, 3 - speed controller transistor screwed to the radiator, 4 - electric motor, 5 - gearbox.

Read about the screwdriver device in the article.

Some spare parts (motor, gearbox, switch, etc.) for the most popular models can be bought (only it is better to buy through an online store, because the price may be higher in a regular store of this network).

The screwdriver may not turn on for three main reasons: the battery is faulty (not charged), the power button is faulty, the motor brushes are worn out, or the anchor itself has burned out (very rarely).

Battery. Checking the battery is carried out by simply measuring the constant voltage at its terminals with any tester. The output voltage of a working charged battery must correspond to that indicated on the case - 12V, 18V, etc. Otherwise, the battery must be replaced. The screwdriver charger may also be faulty.

Speed ​​controller and reverse. The screwdriver speed controller is checked with a multimeter in the continuity mode. It should be noted that if the button is fully pressed, the contacts close in it and the voltage to the engine (to reverse) is supplied directly, excluding the speed controller circuit. Two wires from the battery come to the button, after it two wires are connected to the engine through the reverse contacts. The power button can still have three wires for connecting a regulatory element (field effect transistor), which is placed outside the case. For continuity, the probes are connected to the input and one of the motor wires (if possible, to the reverse input contacts) alternately, then the button is pressed all the way. The device indicates the presence or absence of contact, after which the second input wire is measured. We translate the reverse lever and repeat the measurements. If there is no contact, the button changes.

Repairing a screwdriver button with your own hands is possible, but only if you have certain skills. It is important to understand that after opening the case, many switching parts will simply fall out of the case. This can be prevented only by gently lifting the cover initially and by the desired sketching of the location of the contacts and springs. If darkened contacts are found, they are cleaned with sandpaper. After assembly, repeated measurements are taken and with positive results (there is contact), the button is installed in its original place.

It should be noted right away that if, after repairing the button, the screwdriver motor started working when the button was pressed completely, and when the button was pressed smoothly, the speed was not adjusted, then the reason should be sought in the adjustment circuit. Most screwdriver repairs in this case come down to replacing the entire button.

If there is no reverse, replace the reverse switch or try to repair it. To do this, open the cover of the switch and, as in the case of the button, gently lift it. We check the contacts, clean and assemble. If the contacts are burned or deformed, the reverse must be replaced. There are options for buttons in which the reverse is assembled inside the button body, in this case the button changes entirely.

If, when the button is released, the engine continues to spin, and before it did not spin, in this case it is necessary to pay attention to the speed controller, namely the control transistor. Either the entire button or the transistor should be replaced.

electric motor. If all of the above operations showed the health of the elements, then it is necessary to check the condition of the motor brushes. To do this, the engine is disconnected from the button, and the multimeter probes are connected to the engine wires. The absence of low resistance in the circuit indicates brush wear, but armature breakage (winding breakage) should not be ruled out, although this happens very rarely. Usually, in this case, the entire motor changes, but if the brushes are worn out, it is possible to restore the screwdriver motor on its own. On some motors, the brushes can be replaced without dismantling the motor. For others, it is necessary to separate the rear motor cover with brushes from the motor housing.

To do this, it is necessary to bend the rolling of the cover, but in such a way that the edges do not break off, since they will need to be returned to their place after assembly. The flexible wire of the brushes is connected to the holder using spot welding, but the wires of the new brushes can also be soldered, but only with refractory solder, for example, POS-60. Before assembling the engine, the brushes are removed in the brush holder with a thin wire clamp, the cover is put in place and the wires are pulled out, thereby freeing the brushes. Next, go around the edges of the case to firmly press the back cover.

Extraneous whistles and squeaks during the operation of a screwdriver can be caused by wear on the armature bushings or a detached magnet that is in contact with the anchor. In the first case, you can extend the life of the engine if you put a drop of precision oil on the bushings, and then turn on the engine so that the oil disperses into the bushings themselves. In this way, you can only extend the life of the engine, but over time you still have to replace it.

Reducer. From the long operation of the screwdriver under heavy loads and when pressed sideways, the gearbox shaft is bent, on which the cartridge is screwed on, there is a strong beating during the operation of the screwdriver. The support sleeve or bearing of this shaft may also wear out. If only the bushing or bearing is damaged, and the shaft is not bent, then you can try to replace only worn parts.

It may happen that the engine starts for a fraction of a second and stops abruptly. Everything points to a breakdown in the gearbox, usually it is a breakdown of the pin on which the satellite is attached. You can try to replace the carrier or the entire gearbox. The failure of the gearbox is often due to wear of the gear teeth. Detailed description screwdriver gearbox devices read.

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Manufacture of a classic German-type wooden carpentry workbench. Finally got around to the teacher's workbench in our training workshop. I had a free moment to make a workbench for myself, and not use the workbenches of the students. The choice fell on a classic wooden workbench, I call it a German-type workbench, the one that I remember from labor lessons at school, with transverse (front) L-shaped vise and box-shaped longitudinal (rear).

Bench board shield, 40 mm thick, riveted in

Of course, in the photo - a shield already processed on a thickness gauge. Here it stands just for an example of how they work (I didn’t have time to remove it when I glued the shield to the draft). The binding of the workbench board with a thickness of 40mm and a width of 120mm is assembled on a dovetail, which is made on a circular machine using
To position the blanks, a home-made template made of plywood and polycarbonate is used and. Thanks to them, the workpieces are accurately and reliably fixed in the carriage, and the fingers are intact))))))

Thus, the counterparts of the dovetail and the preliminary cuts of the dovetail itself are made. Beveled edges are cut with a saw set at an angle of 7 degrees. I check the angle with a Marples square

For more accurate and reliable fixation of the workpiece in the carriage, we use

You can not do without the use of hand tools. We cut what could not be removed on the machine using the New Concept manual jigsaw

and carpentry chisels

Benchboard binding is ready

In order to make the binding of the workbench board more stable, we cut into it on the dovetail what we conventionally call frames, otherwise - transverse strut bars. Fedor Alekseevich Bondarev advised us to use this in the design, for which he received a separate Russian merci.

We check that the dovetail nests are strictly mirrored.

Now let's deal directly with the bench board shield, we need to drill holes in it for stops. This is done on drilling machine using a forstner drill from Fisch

We make tongues and grooves and folds on a circular machine with typesetting disks using a home-made plywood carriage.

When selecting tongues and folds under the bottom of the workbench, which increases the accuracy and safety of work

After assembling dry and checking the accuracy of all connections, we assemble the entire construction of the workbench board for glue and using their own (Piher) clamps.

The workbench is glued.

Additionally, we attract the strapping of the workbench to the shield at the point where the solid line breaks 12mm with “grouses”

When fitting the parts, a cross-cut planer from Veritas was used.

The “beauty” at the box-shaped longitudinal vise was sawn out with a band saw, followed by processing and rasps.

We assemble a box of rear (longitudinal) vise.

Accurately fit all the ridges and tongues will help us zenzubeli, simple and grooved.

Install

In hard-to-reach places, we use the Kanzawa angle nozzle for a screwdriver.

We install the front vice and strengthen them with a coupler - a threaded pin.

Now it remains to align the workbench. We work

Wolfcraft jigsaw workbench, barcode 4006885619708 (WOLFCRAFTS)
Bestseller!

Application:
The ideal attachment for making precise cuts with a jigsaw

Description :

Precise sawing thanks to the visibility of the marking line and the parallelism of the stop.
Due to the fact that the cut is made from the underside of the workpiece, there are fewer chips and a clean edge is obtained on the visible side of the workpiece.
With the help of two steel clamps, a secure fixation can be made on any desktop and workbench with a maximum thickness of 60 mm.
Working surface: galvanized
Observe safety precautions while working.
​

Specifications :

Table area: 320x300 mm
Workpiece position adjustment: rip fence
Table surface: galvanized
Jigsaw blade: max. 100 mm
Jigsaw Models: All
Cutting width with rip fence: max. 170 mm
Table height, mm 41
Weight 2.3 kg
Warranty 5 years
​
Equipment:
Table
Saw blade adapter
Parallel stop

W production olfcraft GmbH (Germany).

Wolfcraft is a popular European brand of hand tools in the DIY segment. For more than 60 years, the manufacturer has specialized in the production of easy-to-use devices, many of which have become innovative. Production technologies are being improved and adapted to modern requirements. Wolfcraft's produces Workbenches (easy to transport, easy to use), Clamps (have a well-thought-out design and securely fasten parts), Construction knives (sharply sharpened and have comfortable handles). Todayproduced at two factories - in Germany and Slovakia.

Video:

Hello to all DIY lovers!

Everyone who often has to work with a jigsaw knows that it is very inconvenient to put a jigsaw on a workbench or on a table, and it is also inconvenient to take it to work later due to the fact that a saw blade protrudes from the bottom of the jigsaw.
As a result, the jigsaw has to be placed on its side all the time, while twisting the hand, and also at the risk of hitting the workbench with a file, which can lead to its breakage. In the same way, twisting his hand, you have to take it. Of course, this does not really matter if you do not have to work with a jigsaw so much, since in this case you can be patient. However, if the amount of work is large, and also if your electric jigsaw is powerful and heavy enough, then this inconvenience is significantly annoying, leads to rapid fatigue of the working hand and significantly reduces the quality of work.

To solve this problem, I decided to make a special stand, quite simple to manufacture.

Below is a drawing of this stand.

From the drawing, I think everything is clear enough, however, I want to clarify one important point, in my opinion.
As you can see from the drawing, I made a wedge-shaped slot in the stand, although it would have been possible to get by with just a straight narrow slot. But the fact is that it is much more convenient to start the file into a wedge-shaped, wide slot at the base while installing the jigsaw on the stand, which is called without “aiming” and without being distracted from work. Moreover, the wider the slot wedge at the base, the more convenient it is to put a jigsaw on the stand. However, if you make a wedge wide enough at the base, which is wider than the jigsaw slide, then the jigsaw will be unstable and may even tip back. Therefore, in this case, it is better to choose the golden mean, that is, to make the width of the base of the slot such that it is convenient enough to put the jigsaw on a stand, and that it stands securely.

I, for example (as can be seen from the drawing), chose the width of the base of the slot to be approximately 78 mm. As practice has shown, this is quite enough to make it convenient to put the jigsaw on the stand, and that it stands securely and firmly on it. You, if you decide to make the same stand, choose the indicated size depending on the width of the slide of your jigsaw.
There is one more point I would like to make. As you can see in the drawing, I made the front and back of the stand semi-circular. But I decided to do this only for beauty, so if you want to simplify the task a little, you can make the stand just rectangular.
So, let's finally proceed to the manufacture of the stand.

Materials and tools

For this we need the following accessories:

Materials and fasteners:

A piece of board 2 cm thick, 14 cm wide, and 35-40 cm long;

Four screws with a press washer 4x50 mm.

Tools:

Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square);

Electric jigsaw with a saw for a figured cut;

Electric drill-driver;

Drill for metal with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm;

Hole saw for wood (crown for wood) with a diameter of 28 mm;

Screwdriver bit PH2, for driving screws;

Wrench 20 mm., for wrapping and unscrewing the nut of the hole saw for wood;

Sandpaper.

Manufacturing process

To begin with, as always, we mark the blank board of our stand according to the drawing. By the way, it should be noted that although the length of our future stand is only 20 cm, nevertheless, the length of the blank board must be taken a little more (by 15-20 cm) in order to be able to conveniently fix the blank during its processing.
In order to designate curved surfaces on the workpiece, you can use any round object of a sufficiently large diameter. For example, I took a plastic jar in which I keep various trifles.

Then we drill blind holes from the bottom of the workpiece for the leg screws.

Then we cut a wedge in the workpiece with an electric jigsaw, and then we cut out the entire stand.

We process the stand with sandpaper and wrap the screws-legs into it.

And now our stand is ready.

We put a jigsaw on it, and in order for the stand to stand steadily, we adjust the screws that act as legs.

Moreover, we can even give the stand a slight tilt back if we screw in the rear leg screws a little deeper. In my opinion, it will be more convenient.

You can use this stand, both during work and for storing a jigsaw, somewhere on a shelf or on a rack.
And finally, I want to give important advice to those who want to make the same stand. The fact is that the height of the stand must be chosen depending on the length and, accordingly, on the amount of overhang of the file that you use. For example, I almost always (with rare exceptions) use a file for figured wood cutting. The length of the working part of such a file is 50 mm, and the maximum overhang is about 50 mm. Therefore, the height of the stand at 60 mm. is enough for me. If, for example, the jigsaw is accidentally turned on when it is on the stand, then the file at the maximum reach will not reach the workbench on which the stand stands for a whole centimeter. Accordingly, it will not break and will not damage the workbench.

If you use longer files, then naturally you need to increase the height of the stand. Moreover, it is very simple to do this if you take longer screws with a press washer as the legs of the stand, let's say 80-100 mm long. These screws come in a wide range of sizes and can be purchased at any hardware store.

Well, on this, perhaps, that's all. All the best and bye!