Wolfcraft jigsaw workbench, barcode 4006885619708 (WOLFCRAFTS)
Bestseller!

Application:
The ideal attachment for making precise cuts with a jigsaw

Description :

Precise sawing thanks to the visibility of the marking line and the parallelism of the stop.
Due to the fact that the cut is made from the underside of the workpiece, there are fewer chips and a clean edge is obtained on the visible side of the workpiece.
With the help of two steel clamps, a secure fixation can be made on any desktop and workbench with a maximum thickness of 60 mm.
Working surface: galvanized
Observe safety precautions while working.
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Specifications :

Table area: 320x300 mm
Workpiece position adjustment: rip fence
Table surface: galvanized
Jigsaw blade: max. 100 mm
Jigsaw Models: All
Cutting width with rip fence: max. 170 mm
Table height, mm 41
Weight 2.3 kg
Warranty 5 years
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Equipment:
Table
Saw blade adapter
Parallel stop

W production olfcraft GmbH (Germany).

Wolfcraft is a popular European brand of hand tools in the DIY segment. For more than 60 years, the manufacturer has specialized in the production of easy-to-use devices, many of which have become innovative. Production technologies are being improved and adapted to modern requirements. Wolfcraft's produces Workbenches (easy to transport, easy to use), Clamps (have a well-thought-out design and securely fasten parts), Construction knives (sharply sharpened and have comfortable handles). Todayproduced at two factories - in Germany and Slovakia.

Video:

Hello to all DIY lovers!

Everyone who often has to work with a jigsaw knows that it is very inconvenient to put a jigsaw on a workbench or on a table, and it is also inconvenient to take it to work later due to the fact that a saw blade protrudes from the bottom of the jigsaw.
As a result, the jigsaw has to be placed on its side all the time, while twisting the hand, and also at the risk of hitting the workbench with a file, which can lead to its breakage. In the same way, twisting his hand, you have to take it. Of course, this does not really matter if you do not have to work with a jigsaw so much, since in this case you can be patient. However, if the amount of work is large, and also if your electric jigsaw is powerful and heavy enough, then this inconvenience is significantly annoying, leads to rapid fatigue of the working hand and significantly reduces the quality of work.

To solve this problem, I decided to make a special stand, quite simple to manufacture.

Below is a drawing of this stand.

From the drawing, I think everything is clear enough, however, I want to clarify one important point, in my opinion.
As you can see from the drawing, I made a wedge-shaped slot in the stand, although it would have been possible to get by with just a straight narrow slot. But the fact is that it is much more convenient to start the file into a wedge-shaped, wide slot at the base while installing the jigsaw on the stand, which is called without “aiming” and without being distracted from work. Moreover, the wider the slot wedge at the base, the more convenient it is to put a jigsaw on the stand. However, if you make a wedge wide enough at the base, which is wider than the jigsaw slide, then the jigsaw will be unstable and may even tip back. Therefore, in this case, it is better to choose the golden mean, that is, to make the width of the base of the slot such that it is convenient enough to put the jigsaw on a stand, and that it stands securely.

I, for example (as can be seen from the drawing), chose the width of the base of the slot to be approximately 78 mm. As practice has shown, this is quite enough to make it convenient to put the jigsaw on the stand, and that it stands securely and firmly on it. You, if you decide to make the same stand, choose the indicated size depending on the width of the slide of your jigsaw.
There is one more point I would like to make. As you can see in the drawing, I made the front and back of the stand semi-circular. But I decided to do this only for beauty, so if you want to simplify the task a little, you can make the stand just rectangular.
So, let's finally proceed to the manufacture of the stand.

Materials and tools

For this we need the following accessories:

Materials and fasteners:

A piece of board 2 cm thick, 14 cm wide, and 35-40 cm long;

Four screws with a press washer 4x50 mm.

Tools:

Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square);

Electric jigsaw with a saw for a figured cut;

Electric drill-driver;

Drill for metal with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm;

Hole saw for wood (crown for wood) with a diameter of 28 mm;

Screwdriver bit PH2, for driving screws;

Wrench 20 mm., for wrapping and unscrewing the nut of the hole saw for wood;

Sandpaper.

Manufacturing process

To begin with, as always, we mark the blank board of our stand according to the drawing. By the way, it should be noted that although the length of our future stand is only 20 cm, nevertheless, the length of the blank board must be taken a little more (by 15-20 cm) in order to be able to conveniently fix the blank during its processing.
In order to designate curved surfaces on the workpiece, you can use any round object of a sufficiently large diameter. For example, I took a plastic jar in which I keep various trifles.

Then we drill blind holes from the bottom of the workpiece for the leg screws.

Then we cut a wedge in the workpiece with an electric jigsaw, and then we cut out the entire stand.

We process the stand with sandpaper and wrap the screws-legs into it.

And now our stand is ready.

We put a jigsaw on it, and in order for the stand to stand steadily, we adjust the screws that act as legs.

Moreover, we can even give the stand a slight tilt back if we screw in the rear leg screws a little deeper. In my opinion, it will be more convenient.

You can use this stand, both during work and for storing a jigsaw, somewhere on a shelf or on a rack.
And finally, I want to give important advice to those who want to make the same stand. The fact is that the height of the stand must be chosen depending on the length and, accordingly, on the amount of overhang of the file that you use. For example, I almost always (with rare exceptions) use a file for figured wood cutting. The length of the working part of such a file is 50 mm, and the maximum overhang is about 50 mm. Therefore, the height of the stand at 60 mm. is enough for me. If, for example, the jigsaw is accidentally turned on when it is on the stand, then the file at the maximum reach will not reach the workbench on which the stand stands for a whole centimeter. Accordingly, it will not break and will not damage the workbench.

If you use longer files, then naturally you need to increase the height of the stand. Moreover, it is very simple to do this if you take longer screws with a press washer as the legs of the stand, let's say 80-100 mm long. These screws come in a wide range of sizes and can be purchased at any hardware store.

Well, on this, perhaps, that's all. All the best and bye!

Today I will tell you how to make a stand for a jigsaw, it is easy to manufacture and convenient to use, it can be used both when working with a jigsaw and for storing it. Do-it-yourselfers who often work with a jigsaw know that it is very inconvenient to put this tool on a workbench or on a table, as well as to take it for further work due to a file protruding from the base, which can break if you put the jigsaw in the wrong way, and also at the same time you experience inconvenience when the brush has to be turned out to take or put the tool. However, such an idea of ​​​​a stand is not always necessary, since not everyone works with a jigsaw for a large amount of time, but periodically, for this reason, you can endure all the inconveniences. But if the amount of work is large or if your electric jigsaw is quite powerful and heavy, then using it is also not always convenient and easy, and this leads to increased hand fatigue, which significantly reduces the quality of work.

In order to make a homemade comfortable stand, we need:
* A piece of board 2 cm thick, 14 cm wide, and 35-40 cm long.
* Four screws with a press washer 4x50 mm.
* Pencil, tape measure and square.
* Shilo.
* An electric jigsaw with a file for a figured cut.
* Screwdriver and drill for metal with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm.
* Crown on a tree with a diameter of 28 mm.
* Figured bit RN2 for tightening screws.
* A 20mm wrench that will help you tighten and unscrew the nuts of the hole saw in wood.
* Sandpaper.

Preliminary calculations and consideration of the convenience of the product.
First you need to build a drawing of the future part, we do it in the compass 3D program, one not unimportant point is visible from the drawing, that the idea was applied here to make a wedge-shaped slot in the stand, although it would be possible to get by with just a straight narrow slot. And the bottom line is that it is much more convenient and faster to launch the file into the wedge-shaped slot while installing the jigsaw on the stand, which also does not require any aiming for this. The dependence here is direct, the wider the slot wedge at the base, the more convenient it is to put a jigsaw. Also, if you make a wedge that is too wide at the base, which will be wider than the sled of the jigsaw, then the stability of the jigsaw will be much lower, which can cause it to tip over. In this regard, it is more profitable to choose the best option, that is, to make the width of the base of the slot such that it is convenient enough to put the jigsaw on a stand without losing the reliability of its stability.

The author chose the size of the width of the base of the slot at his discretion, which became equal to about 78 mm. In reality, this is quite enough to conveniently put the jigsaw on a stand without fear that it will fall back. If you ask yourself such an idea, then, in accordance, choose the indicated size in the drawings, comparing it with the width of the slide of your jigsaw.

The next important point is the front and back of the stand, made in a semicircle. The purpose of this particular shape is to serve the best aesthetic appearance, so if you want to focus on this, you can easily make the shape of the stand rectangular.

Well, we figured out the main nuances, now we proceed to the assembly process.
Step one.
Before picking up a tool, we need to draw the layout of the workpiece according to the drawing. Given that the length of our future stand will be only 20 cm, then for cutting it out it is necessary to take a little more (by 15-20 cm), and this is done in order to ensure that the workpiece can be stably fixed for further processing.

To show curved surfaces with a pencil on the workpiece, we take any round object of large diameter. In this case, it is a plastic jar for storing small things.

Step two.
We fix the workpiece in the clamps and cut a hole in it with a hole saw or, as it is called, a crown, clamped in a screwdriver chuck.

Step three.
This stand will have special legs to be at the maximum height, which will prevent the jigsaw file from breaking on the surface, we drill blind holes for these legs.

Step four.
Using a jigsaw, we cut out the drawn wedge along the contour and then cut out the extra parts of the stand. Working with a jigsaw is quite dangerous, so be careful and use safety precautions such as protective gloves as well as goggles.

Step five.
We arm ourselves with sandpaper and grind the surface to a smooth state, which should not have scuff marks and recesses, after which we twist the screws into the flat surface of the workpiece, in this case they serve as legs.

On this, the home-made stand is ready, we put a jigsaw on it, and in order for the stand to stand stably, we adjust the screws, which are also legs.

Today, a variety of power tools are used for home repairs and work on a suburban area. Special auxiliary devices and devices are produced for them, many of them can be made by hand. It is better to purchase complex technical devices ready-made, and workbenches, tables for a router, nozzles and much more can be made independently. Homemade accessories for power tools can be adjusted to the required conditions.

Classification of accessories for power tools

They are usually classified into the following groups:

1. Tools and nozzles for processing. These are manual devices, which include grinding nozzles and bars for grinders and drills.
2. Devices that are designed to change position, set a specific cutting angle, drilling, and more. These are reference surfaces, templates, guides, and more. They can take on a variety of appearances and are often made of metal or wood.
3. Devices for dust extraction. Such devices are used to remove sawdust, dust, chips from the working surface. It is not so difficult to make such devices with your own hands, usually existing ventilation holes on the equipment are used for fastening.
4. Grinding nozzles, blocks or bars intended for surface treatment are assembled with their own hands. For example, to polish a wooden surface or clean metal, you can use a wooden plate with a handle on top. Sandpaper of the required grain size is attached to its working side. The shape of the platform can be any, it is only important to choose the right grinding material.

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Milling tables

Devices for power tools are different, but sometimes they have overall dimensions, as is the case with milling machines and saws. It is recommended to assemble a solid table that will have everything you need for convenient and safe work. The simplest option is a milling table, made in the form of a large board with a hole for the router and guide board. The dimensions of the worktop can be different, it all depends on what kind of work will be performed. A more perfect option is a table with legs of the required height. The working and guide boards are made from chipboard. On the surface, a vice, clamps, etc. can be provided. The legs for the table are best made removable, provide a spare set.

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Workbenches for power tools

To work with many tools, the organization of the workspace is required. For a home workshop or garage, a small, compact and multifunctional workbench can become indispensable. Making it yourself is not so difficult, you just need to clearly define what functions it is needed for. It is best to make a workbench that can be used at any height, including on a table.

Figure 1. The main elements of the workbench.

Then the power tool can be conveniently located, change its position if necessary. For work, it is recommended to use any solid wood, a popular material is maple, which is easily processed, while possessing the necessary hardness and strength.

For fixing on the table, comfortable legs or clamps can be attached to the device.

A workbench requires a vise, they are often used in work. An example of the main elements of the workbench is shown in Fig. 1.

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Drill bits

A drill may require a variety of attachments during operation. They allow you to make work easier, make it easier, more convenient and faster. A large number of homemade products are used for the drill, which many manufacturers today have taken as the basis for the development of special kits. The list of devices that you can do with your own hands is long.

Power tool attachments:

1. Nozzles-limiters. During repair and construction work, it is required to prepare holes of the required diameter to a strictly specified depth. It is for this purpose that a rather simple nozzle is used, which consists of 3 parts. You can do it yourself, while the parameters of the holes can be easily and quickly changed if necessary. The first part of the device is a clamp for holding, it is placed directly on the body of the tool. Such a collar has 2 holes, stops-guides in the form of metal rods of 6 mm are inserted into them. The rods are bent if necessary. During operation, the required angle of inclination of the drill is set in order to prepare holes with the specified parameters.
2. Circle cutters are a special device that looks like a large compass. Nozzles are assembled from metal rods. The vertical part acts as a stop; a special thickening is made at its end. A horizontal one is attached to the vertical part, on one side of which a comfortable handle is made, and on the other, a ring is welded. For the device, it is necessary to provide for the diameter of the mounting ring so that the drill does not slip out, tightly held in it during operation. Inside, it is best to glue a rubber ring, which will help make the fixation more secure.

Prior to this, the jigsaw was used only in rough cutting sections or for cutting sheet material. I worked with large files several times and each time I wondered why they were needed at all, if they were always taken away decently. But if you put the jigsaw on the table, then its functionality increases significantly. The jigsaw turns out to be able to replace (as far as possible) a circular saw, a band saw, grinding machine for delicate work. I spied the design on the blog at markellov for which many thanks to him! I placed my version on a folding workbench. The size of the table is 36x36 cm. The table itself is made of 12 mm plywood. The machine is completely disassembled and put away in a cabinet. The guide is fixed with 2 wing screws.

Bars under the table for fixing the entire fixture to the workbench, and also allow you to place fasteners for the upper guide caliper.

The jigsaw is fixed to the table with only one screw. To do this, in an oak bar, I chose a quarter to the thickness of the platform. In another bar, I made a quarter at an angle of more than 90 degrees and the platform enters it like a wedge, so displacement during work in all 4 directions is excluded.

I saw it on the net freaky in terms of workmanship table, but for this you need to try very, very hard. There are also finished the bourgeois have a solution, but as I understand it, it is most likely for some very small jobs. The top guide arm is height adjustable to accommodate different blades. I thought for a long time how to make it with a high degree of rigidity and at the same time avoid its bulkiness. Since the device itself does not have side walls that could serve as a support for the bracket, I had to tinker a bit. Pine bar in the center, a T-shaped steel profile is screwed to it and all this is pasted over with 12 mm plywood, which provides rigidity for the top rail. Here's what happened in the end.

To work with long blades without pulling to the side allows the node for fixing the edge of the blade, as in a band saw. The option with bearings initially seemed to me the most efficient, but then I still chose the option with oak guides. On wide blades, like band saws, the use of bearings is more justified, but here it is more convenient to adjust the gap between the blade by moving such inserts.

The result is a fairly compact machine for small sawing work. Now cabriols can be cut. The height of the cut depends on the length of the blade.

P.S.: MAIN What needs to be considered when working with a jigsaw in this position is the tossing of the part during operation, since the saw teeth in this case “look” up. Be sure to fix the part on top, like sewing machines. In my case, the bracket is lowered and the lower part of the guide assembly does not allow the workpiece to bounce. Perhaps in time I will make a fixing foot.